A way to address is this is to think about how you would correct with film – you’d use a blue filter [80A?]. You just need to adjust the colour in the "cooler" direction.
It is better to get it right in the first place …
Can you elaborate a bit please. I know what you mean, I tried selecting the cast’s colour, and inverting it, and overlaying it in a seperate layer, which looks ok for some of the picture bus even worse in others. I’m am running photoshopCS at home, but version 4 and 5 here (at work) where is the ‘cooler’ filter?
Thanks so far though!
Check the channels. If they have detail, try converting to LAB and adjusting the a and b curves (moving their endpoints). If one of the channels is shot, you will have to a use channel mixer adjustment layer to strengthen the lost channel.
Oh god, this is getting really complicated! Simplify please!!!
Thanks!
Channels are visible through the channel menu. If detail is lost, the process to fix it is complicated.
For LAB correction, change mode from RGB to LAB, add a curves adjustment layer, go to the a or b curves and pull the upper right and lower left endpoints in such a way that the new curve is a line parallel to the original unaltered line but shifted upward or downward. The preview will tell you if it is improved. The a curve controls red-green shifts and the b curve blue-yellow shifts.
ahhh… Right, so I wanna be adjusting the B curve then? I’ve got one of those sort of pictures to do right now,i’ll have a look and get back to you!!
Thanks!!
May I email you the pic I’m about to do, and so you can see exactly what I mean. I leve it how it is. only i’ll make it smaller so it’s not too much of a big file.
I posted it to you yahoo address…
I had in mind simply putting in a colour balance adjustment layer. Then fiddle with the slides [more blue/green/cyan] until it looks good. Then note the numbers and you could make an action or, at least, have a repeatable process.
A simple quick method that works on many casts-
Curves > black eyedropper, click darkest shadow > white eyedropper, click high light. Now switch to the midtone dropper and choose a neutral gray area or one that should be (watch the info pallet for something around 162,162,162 RGB) then click, experiment 150s or 170s maybe better. Don’t know if it’ll work on your images-worth a try.
Have you tried "auto color"?
I always use the eyedroppers. but on these pictures, if you click on the gray’s, it sends nearly all the other bits blue. the cast is absolutely awful, the grey pointer just isn’t any good for them. I usually swear by it..
Nathan
For what it is worth, colour correction for fluorescent lighting is one of the hardest to do well. The very narrow spectrum of light is the problem. There are several ways to improve things though. I sent a sample of some of the options.
"I sent a sample of some of the options. "
So Philo, how about the rest of us? Or is this a private joke?
Barry: it is not joke, but as you know, there are many ways to globally correct colour. So I took the image and showed colour corrections using the following techniques: eyedroppers on curves in RGB, curves in LAB, selected colour bias-put on layer-inverted-changed mode to colour-lowered opacity, corrected with channel mix. Most of the people on this forum already know these correction techniques, but I can hardly post the results in a way that allows people to fiddle with the adjustments. The bottom line is that colour bias from fluorescent lights can be improved, but seldom does one get really accurate full spectrum colour results. That is why one really tries not to shoot using fluorescent light.
Photographers are supposed to be in charge of the camera not just pointing and shooting and leaving you to sort out their lack of attention. Why not print out the horrible photographs with their names neatly presented at the bottom. They’ll soon take a little more care.
John
If they don’t know enough to set a white balance, they aren’t really photographers. From a photographer.
