Filter for orange mask?

In article <9qime.25828$>,
"Aaron Blacksmith" wrote:

How do I filter out the orange mask which I get when I make a duplicate of a color negative?

You mean on a scanner? By the time the image is in Photoshop, it’s difficult (though still possible) to remove the orange mask, but it requires such a substantial color correction that if the image is 8 bits per channel you may see noticeable posterization when you’re done. Better to remove the orange mask when you make the scan; almost all scanner driver software has an option to do this.

What kind of scanner are you using?

—
Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html

a color slide duplicator + Nikon D70s. No scanner.

"tacit" wrote in message

In article <9qime.25828$>,
"Aaron Blacksmith" wrote:

How do I filter out the orange mask which I get when I make a duplicate of a
color negative?

You mean on a scanner? By the time the image is in Photoshop, it’s difficult (though still possible) to remove the orange mask, but it requires such a substantial color correction that if the image is 8 bits per channel you may see noticeable posterization when you’re done. Better to remove the orange mask when you make the scan; almost all scanner driver software has an option to do this.

What kind of scanner are you using?

—
Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html

a color slide duplicator + Nikon D70s. No scanner.

On the scanner NG there were folks who scanned in neg film as positive film and applied a curve to remove the mask. I don’t recall the recipe (my scanner, like most, has a pos/neg option and removes the mask automatically) but you might post there or Google deja-news to see what was said.

Bill

Aaron Blacksmith wrote:

(CS2)
How do I filter out the orange mask which I get when I make a duplicate of a color negative? I guess that it can be done either when shooting the duplicate or in Photoshop afterwards. Any ideas how to do it (both ways)?

To copy and invert color negatives using a digicam:

Use daylight or a relatively cool light to illuminate the negs, not tungsten, or your blue channel will be dark and noisy. Copy all your negs with the same exposure if possible, using any fixed white balance setting – indoor is good. Don’t rely on the camera’s autoexposure or auto white balance.

Copy one negative with known pure white and clear orange mask – the film leader has this – now you know why the processor has been returning this piece to you all these years :-).

Create a curves layer, and click the white eyedropper on an area of pure orange mask, and the black eyedropper on a maximum black section of negative. Invert the ends of the RGB curve.

Save the curve and use it to invert your other images to a positive. You will probably need to make slight adjustments to the first image’s curves, then save the resulting curve and use it to process your remaining negatives.
—
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com

"Mike Russell" wrote in message

Aaron Blacksmith wrote:

(CS2)
How do I filter out the orange mask which I get when I make a duplicate of a color negative? I guess that it can be done either when shooting the duplicate or in Photoshop afterwards. Any ideas how to do it (both ways)?

To copy and invert color negatives using a digicam:

Use daylight or a relatively cool light to illuminate the negs, not tungsten, or your blue channel will be dark and noisy. Copy all your negs with the same exposure if possible, using any fixed white balance setting –
indoor is good. Don’t rely on the camera’s autoexposure or auto white balance.

Copy one negative with known pure white and clear orange mask – the film leader has this – now you know why the processor has been returning this piece to you all these years :-).

Create a curves layer, and click the white eyedropper on an area of pure orange mask, and the black eyedropper on a maximum black section of negative. Invert the ends of the RGB curve.

Save the curve and use it to invert your other images to a positive. You will probably need to make slight adjustments to the first image’s curves, then save the resulting curve and use it to process your remaining negatives.
—
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com

Thanx – I’ll try that.
Aaron

"Bill Hilton" wrote in message

a color slide duplicator + Nikon D70s. No scanner.

On the scanner NG there were folks who scanned in neg film as positive film and applied a curve to remove the mask. I don’t recall the recipe (my scanner, like most, has a pos/neg option and removes the mask automatically) but you might post there or Google deja-news to see what was said.

Bill

Thanks – I’ll try that.
By the way – what kind of results do you get using analog camera + negative scanner compared to a dslr camera (like my D70s)?
Aaron

Aaron asks …

what kind of results do you get using analog camera + negative scanner compared to a dslr camera (like my D70s)?

Another controversial topic, especially on the digital and 35 mm newsgroups 🙂 Ah well, what the heck, here goes …

I shoot mostly fine-grained slide films (Velvia and Provia 100F) in 35 mm, 6×4.5 cm medium format and 6×7 cm medium format and have a decent 4,000 dpi film scanner (Nikon 8000). I also have owned a 6 Mpix dSLR (Canon 10D, similar to what you use) and now use an 8 Mpix dSLR (Canon 1D Mark II) and 11 Mpix dSLR (Canon 1Ds).

For larger prints I think 6 Mpix doesn’t quite reach 35 mm standards, using the same lenses on the same subjects (which is how I tested). I think the 8 Mpix body I have is pretty much a match for 35 mm for most subjects (basically it’s smoother while film still has more resolution so it’s a trade-off). There’s no doubt in my mind that the 11 Mpix images print better large than the 35 mm scans but they aren’t as good as 6×4.5 or 6×7 cm film. At least that’s what I’m seeing in my workflow. YMMV depending on your tastes and subject matter. I know a lot of people who replaced 35 mm with 6 Mpixels and are very happy with their decision.

Bill