Monitor calibration question

N
Posted By
noblack
Jun 17, 2004
Views
781
Replies
25
Status
Closed
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.

With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.

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H
Husky
Jun 17, 2004
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:49:33 GMT, wrote:

did you try the PSA link on my web page
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html any news page link has the same link to ‘Is your computer color blind’
Give’s you a quick check even before you move past my link. If all looks right, there’s no need to use the link.

I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.

more pix @ http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/index.html
JW
J Warren
Jun 17, 2004
In article , says…
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.
How old are the monitors? After 3 years or so, it’s often difficult to get a true black level. I had an aging Sony monitor that had that problem. "True black" was a deep midnight blue, and no amount of fiddling with the front-panel controls would fix it. I know a bit about how monitors work, so I took it apart and tweaked gain and bias settings. That got me back to normal for a few months, but then it drifted out again. I bought a new monitor. Some pro monitors have built- in calibration capability to adjust gain and bias within the monitor. This is in contrast to external calibration which can only modify the video card’s LUTs (which shrinks the gamut).

Jason
NE
no_email
Jun 17, 2004
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 09:53:11 -0400, Husky wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:49:33 GMT, wrote:

did you try the PSA link on my web page
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html any news page link has the same link to ‘Is your computer color blind’
Give’s you a quick check even before you move past my link. If all looks right, there’s no need to use the link.

snip

Sorry for the eavesdrop, but I cannot find what you speak of.I couldn’t find a PSA link on
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html

ZONED!
O
OceanView
Jun 17, 2004
:

I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without
separate rgb control and one with.

With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out
true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor
calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.

This may or may not be relevent, but Sonys have a distinctive yellow tint that’s well known. There’s probably a way to correct for it, though I’m sure exactly how.
H
Husky
Jun 17, 2004
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 18:46:28 GMT, (ZONED!) wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 09:53:11 -0400, Husky wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:49:33 GMT, wrote:

did you try the PSA link on my web page
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html any news page link has the same link to ‘Is your computer color blind’
snip

Sorry for the eavesdrop, but I cannot find what you speak of.I couldn’t find a PSA link on
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html

Like it says any news page link. then find the PSA for the color blind thing. It points to a site dedicated to color adjustment. I just grabbed some of the checks for a quick check of my own setup, and decided to add a link back to the web site that tells you how.

more pix @ http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/index.html
T
Toby
Jun 18, 2004
All that’s necessary is to have the correct values for the white and black points. If the white point is too high with the brightness at minimum bring down the contrast and recalibrate. The OptiCal software makes that quite easy–it has "Check Black" and "Check White" checkboxes so that you can switch between them. If you can manage to set those correctly via the Brightness and Contrast controls then the s/w will set the grays and RGB values.

Toby

wrote in message
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.
N
noblack
Jun 18, 2004
"ZONED!" wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 09:53:11 -0400, Husky wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:49:33 GMT, wrote:

did you try the PSA link on my web page
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html any news page link has the same link to ‘Is your computer color blind’
Give’s you a quick check even before you move past my link. If all looks right, there’s no need to use the link.

snip

Sorry for the eavesdrop, but I cannot find what you speak of.I couldn’t find a PSA link on
http://members.toast.net/cbminfo/bev/index.html

ZONED!

Go to the source directly:

http://www.colormatters.com/comput_colorblind.html
N
noblack
Jun 18, 2004
J Warren wrote:
In article , says…
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.
How old are the monitors? After 3 years or so, it’s often difficult to get a true black level. I had an aging Sony monitor that had that problem. "True black" was a deep midnight blue, and no amount of fiddling with the front-panel controls would fix it. I know a bit about how monitors work, so I took it apart and tweaked gain and bias settings. That got me back to normal for a few months, but then it drifted out again. I bought a new monitor. Some pro monitors have built- in calibration capability to adjust gain and bias within the monitor. This is in contrast to external calibration which can only modify the video card’s LUTs (which shrinks the gamut).

Jason

Both Sony Trinitrons are three or more years old. The G500 has a control for Image Restoration feature which restores the bias and gain back to the original factory settings. It also has a control to adjust the bias and gain for each rgb channel. Before running OptiCal, I used Image Restoration to restore the bias and gain (bias at 50 for each rgb channel, and rgb gain at 95/79/71). When running OptiCal Precal, I changed the rgb gain to 93/67/50 to line up the the three channels in the bar chart. But I was unable to set the black to be true black.

Upon reading your post, I lowered the bias to zero, and the black gets much better (but still not true black). I’ll try to calibrate again with this setting.

How does calibration change a video card’s LUT and shrink the gamut? Is the shrinkage different on different video card? This has always been confusing to me. Thanks.
N
noblack
Jun 18, 2004
Even by lowering Contrast, I still could not get a true black. It may be true that OptiCal is "easy" provided that you can set the correct white and black points. But getting there is *not* easy, at least not on my monitors.

Toby wrote:
All that’s necessary is to have the correct values for the white and black points. If the white point is too high with the brightness at minimum bring down the contrast and recalibrate. The OptiCal software makes that quite easy–it has "Check Black" and "Check White" checkboxes so that you can switch between them. If you can manage to set those correctly via the Brightness and Contrast controls then the s/w will set the grays and RGB values.

Toby

wrote in message
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.
M
Madsen
Jun 18, 2004
wrote:

Even by lowering Contrast, I still could not get a true black. It may be true that OptiCal is "easy" provided that you can set the correct white and black points. But getting there is *not* easy, at least not on my monitors.

Try the ‘Precision’ calibration mode instead of ‘Standard’ then if you haven’t already tried it. You’ll find it under Edit > Preferences in OptiCAL.

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it’s quite normal that Sony monitors (and probably other brands too) are drifting so that you suddenly can’t get a deep black anymore. I’ve seen it too with my Sony FW900. I didn’t dare to take it apart though so I delivered it back to the place where I bought it and they adjusted it for me.

It’s also worth mentioning that a CRT monitor often is brighter for the first half an hour or so. That’s why you shouldn’t calibrate and profile it before it’s warm. Some say 45 minutes and others say an hour just to make sure that it’s warmed up.

Xpost to: comp.graphics.apps.photoshop and alt.graphics.photoshop.


Regards
Madsen
BV
Bart van der Wolf
Jun 18, 2004
"Thomas G. Madsen" wrote in message
SNIP
As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it’s quite normal that Sony monitors (and probably other brands too) are drifting so that you suddenly can’t get a deep black anymore.

Yes, my Trinitron tube (in a Dell casing) did the same, but there is a monitor option called "color return" that does a kind of reset when activated through its OSD menu. Of course recalibration after that is mandatory.

It’s also worth mentioning that a CRT monitor often is brighter for the first half an hour or so. That’s why you shouldn’t calibrate and profile it before it’s warm. Some say 45 minutes and others say an hour just to make sure that it’s warmed up.

I can even see a visual difference till 30-45 minutes after switching it on. Screensavers can also invoke the need for a new warm-up period.

Bart
NE
no_email
Jun 18, 2004
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 11:00:58 GMT, wrote:

Go to the source directly:

http://www.colormatters.com/comput_colorblind.html

Thanks, I had found it through a search but that was the URL I was asking for.
ZONED!
M
Madsen
Jun 18, 2004
Bart van der Wolf wrote:

Yes, my Trinitron tube (in a Dell casing) did the same, but there is a monitor option called "color return" that does a kind of reset when activated through its OSD menu. Of course recalibration after that is mandatory.

It wasn’t enough here unfortunately. (I have a reset button on the front of my FW900 but it couldn’t bring it back).
Normally a Brightness setting of 25 gave me the right black point according to OptiCAL, but suddenly the black point was way to bright even with the Brightness set to 0. Even the black boot screen during POST, which normally was deep black, had a white glow. They have adjusted something inside the monitor (I know that because they’ve made a crack in the casing when they took it off. Argh!). After that, the right black point was back at a brightness of around 25.
It still drifts though. It’s getting brighter and brighter every time I use it but I don’t care. It’s not my primary monitor anymore.

I can even see a visual difference till 30-45 minutes after switching it on.

Me too. That’s why I always waited an hour back in the days when I calibrated it. I don’t do that anymore either.

Screensavers can also invoke the need for a new warm-up period.

True.

Xpost to: comp.graphics.apps.photoshop and alt.graphics.photoshop.


Regards
Madsen
N
noblack
Jun 20, 2004
"Thomas G. Madsen" wrote:
wrote:

Even by lowering Contrast, I still could not get a true black. It may be true that OptiCal is "easy" provided that you can set the correct white and black points. But getting there is *not* easy, at least not on my monitors.

Try the ‘Precision’ calibration mode instead of ‘Standard’ then if you haven’t already tried it. You’ll find it under Edit > Preferences in OptiCAL.

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it’s quite normal that Sony monitors (and probably other brands too) are drifting so that you suddenly can’t get a deep black anymore. I’ve seen it too with my Sony FW900. I didn’t dare to take it apart though so I delivered it back to the place where I bought it and they adjusted it for me.

It’s also worth mentioning that a CRT monitor often is brighter for the first half an hour or so. That’s why you shouldn’t calibrate and profile it before it’s warm. Some say 45 minutes and others say an hour just to make sure that it’s warmed up.
Xpost to: comp.graphics.apps.photoshop and alt.graphics.photoshop.

Regards
Madsen

Yes, the monitors do need to be warmed up before calibration.

I tried to tweak the bias and gain settings on the G500. After playing around and lowering them a bit, I was able to get the channel chart in PreCal to line up and increase the Brightness setting from min to about 15. The black gets a little better, but still muddy. Not sure if a tech can do any better by getting inside the monitor, nor do I know how long it will take before the black gets worse again.

I then hauled out a lowly old MAG monitor and calibrated it just to see if there is a difference. The black is true and rich and the calibration is a breeze. This MAG is much older than the three Sony trinitions I had trouble with. So much for the brand name. Not sure if the Mitsubishis or Viewsonics are any better.
PW
Pjotr Wedersteers
Jun 25, 2004
wrote in message
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.

I was just curious as to whether you all have your own Spyder or rent or loan these things ? I thought of getting one until I heard the price. These babies are expensive!

Another question: Right now I only have a Samsung TFT Syncmaster to work with. How well is colour reproduction on these type of screens ? Are they suitable for photowork at all ? I don’t have the idea Adobe Gamma can do much to my TFT colour reproduction *or I must have been doing things wrong*

Thx
Pjotr
H
Hecate
Jun 26, 2004
On Fri, 25 Jun 2004 16:11:42 +0200, "Pjotr Wedersteers" wrote:

I was just curious as to whether you all have your own Spyder or rent or loan these things ? I thought of getting one until I heard the price. These babies are expensive!

Another question: Right now I only have a Samsung TFT Syncmaster to work with. How well is colour reproduction on these type of screens ? Are they suitable for photowork at all ? I don’t have the idea Adobe Gamma can do much to my TFT colour reproduction *or I must have been doing things wrong*
If all you’re doing is putting images on the web, it will do. Nothing more. If you’;re intending to print anything, then it’s not good enough to get accurate colour repro.



Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui
R
Roberto
Jun 28, 2004
SyncMaster monitors (both CRT and TFT) usually (but not always) ship with "Natural Color" software which works pretty much like Adobe Gamma. It’s wizard like and it offers you a choice of lighting condition besides the standard features (if you can call them that given the fact that these are essencial parts of a soft-calib progs, etc, etc).

Anyway, you should stick to that prog. I’m not sure if Adobe Gamma will calibrate TFTs…

"Pjotr Wedersteers" wrote in message
wrote in message
I tried to calibrate two CRT monitors (on PCs, at 6500K, gamma 2.2) with Colorvision OptiCal Spyder and ran into the same problem. Both are Sony Trinitrons, one without separate rgb control and one with.
With the monitors Contrast set to maximum, it is impossible to adjust Brightness (even at its minimum) to bring out true black on the screen. After creating a profile at these settings, the white and 18% gray look great, but the black appears like a muddy gray. After a good monitor calibration, should the full range of tones look good? What can be causing my problem? Thanks.

I was just curious as to whether you all have your own Spyder or rent or loan these things ? I thought of getting one until I heard the price. These
babies are expensive!

Another question: Right now I only have a Samsung TFT Syncmaster to work with. How well is colour reproduction on these type of screens ? Are they suitable for photowork at all ? I don’t have the idea Adobe Gamma can do much to my TFT colour reproduction *or I must have been doing things wrong*

Thx
Pjotr

PW
Pjotr Wedersteers
Jul 6, 2004
Branko Vukelic wrote:
SyncMaster monitors (both CRT and TFT) usually (but not always) ship with "Natural Color" software which works pretty much like Adobe Gamma. It’s wizard like and it offers you a choice of lighting condition besides the standard features (if you can call them that given the fact that these are essencial parts of a soft-calib progs, etc, etc).

Thanks for your tip. I checked the Samsung site for something like Natural Colour, and all I found was something called MagicTune. Downloaded that (21mb) but unfortunately it says: Your screen is not supported. I haven’t been able to find anything else that looked like a utlity. In the default download section all I found were PDF documents. I have already emailed Samsung support, but I admit my experience with big companies is 98% of mails remain unanswered. So I hope I can find help here!

Anyone has a (link to a) working colour-display-management-utility for my Samsung Syncmaster 191N ? TIA!!!
Pjotr
R
Roberto
Jul 6, 2004
If your graphic card can adjust gamma, you don’t need any additional software to callibrate your screen.

Open http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/figure01.gif in your browser. Set your gamma (through your graphic card software interface, a control panel, or whatever) to 1.80 and adjust brightness of your monitor until the strips match (you’ll have to view them with your eyes half-closed or from a distance of 2~3 m, i.e, 6~9 ft). If you pull it off right, you’ll have a callibrated display. The downside of this method is that no profile is produced. But the results are as good as using, for instance, Adobe Gamma.

You can find more info at:
http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/

"Pjotr Wedersteers" wrote in message
Branko Vukelic wrote:
SyncMaster monitors (both CRT and TFT) usually (but not always) ship with "Natural Color" software which works pretty much like Adobe Gamma. It’s wizard like and it offers you a choice of lighting condition besides the standard features (if you can call them that given the fact that these are essencial parts of a soft-calib progs, etc, etc).

Thanks for your tip. I checked the Samsung site for something like Natural Colour, and all I found was something called MagicTune. Downloaded that (21mb) but unfortunately it says: Your screen is not supported. I haven’t been able to find anything else that looked like a utlity. In the
default download section all I found were PDF documents. I have already emailed Samsung support, but I admit my experience with big companies is 98% of mails remain unanswered. So I hope I can find help here!

Anyone has a (link to a) working colour-display-management-utility for my Samsung Syncmaster 191N ? TIA!!!
Pjotr

R
Roberto
Jul 6, 2004
Oh, and one more thing:

Before you do any corrections, reset your monitor prefs to factory defaults and then do any necessary geometry corrections, and set monitor white point temperature to 6500K. Then calibrate.

"Branko Vukelic" wrote in message
If your graphic card can adjust gamma, you don’t need any additional software to callibrate your screen.

Open http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/figure01.gif in your browser. Set your gamma (through your graphic card software interface, a control panel, or whatever) to 1.80 and adjust brightness of your monitor until the strips match (you’ll have to view them with your eyes half-closed or from a distance of 2~3 m, i.e, 6~9 ft). If you pull it off right, you’ll have a callibrated display. The downside of this method is that no profile is produced. But the results are as good as using, for instance, Adobe Gamma.
You can find more info at:
http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/

"Pjotr Wedersteers" wrote in message
Branko Vukelic wrote:
SyncMaster monitors (both CRT and TFT) usually (but not always) ship with "Natural Color" software which works pretty much like Adobe Gamma. It’s wizard like and it offers you a choice of lighting condition besides the standard features (if you can call them that given the fact that these are essencial parts of a soft-calib progs, etc, etc).

Thanks for your tip. I checked the Samsung site for something like Natural
Colour, and all I found was something called MagicTune. Downloaded that (21mb) but unfortunately it says: Your screen is not supported. I haven’t been able to find anything else that looked like a utlity. In the
default download section all I found were PDF documents. I have already emailed Samsung support, but I admit my experience with big
companies is 98% of mails remain unanswered. So I hope I can find help here!

Anyone has a (link to a) working colour-display-management-utility for my Samsung Syncmaster 191N ? TIA!!!
Pjotr

H
Hecate
Jul 7, 2004
On Tue, 6 Jul 2004 17:41:07 +0200, "Branko Vukelic" wrote:

If your graphic card can adjust gamma, you don’t need any additional software to callibrate your screen.

Open http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/figure01.gif in your browser. Set your gamma (through your graphic card software interface, a control panel, or whatever) to 1.80 and adjust brightness of your monitor until the strips match (you’ll have to view them with your eyes half-closed or from a distance of 2~3 m, i.e, 6~9 ft). If you pull it off right, you’ll have a callibrated display. The downside of this method is that no profile is produced. But the results are as good as using, for instance, Adobe Gamma.
You can find more info at:
http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/
Only one problem with that advice. The Gamma you gave is for Apple monitors running Apple OS. The Gamma for a Win machine should be 2.2.



Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui
R
Roberto
Jul 7, 2004
Hmm. There seems to be a difference in opinions with various authors.

The thing is, Adobe Gamma was (is?) supposed to bring that 2.2 gamma to 1.8. Since newer graphic cards support gamma correction, you can achieve the same thing via, say ATI Control Panel. That’s at least what I’ve heard. If it works for seasoned prepress pros, I don’t see any reason why it should not work for me.

Besides, Adobe Gamma’s been acting a bit odd lately (loosing profiles and things like that) so it has become a pain to use it.

"Hecate" wrote in message
On Tue, 6 Jul 2004 17:41:07 +0200, "Branko Vukelic" wrote:

If your graphic card can adjust gamma, you don’t need any additional software to callibrate your screen.

Open http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/figure01.gif in your browser. Set your gamma (through your graphic card software interface, a control panel, or whatever) to 1.80 and adjust brightness of your monitor until the strips
match (you’ll have to view them with your eyes half-closed or from a distance of 2~3 m, i.e, 6~9 ft). If you pull it off right, you’ll have a callibrated display. The downside of this method is that no profile is produced. But the results are as good as using, for instance, Adobe Gamma.
You can find more info at:
http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/
Only one problem with that advice. The Gamma you gave is for Apple monitors running Apple OS. The Gamma for a Win machine should be 2.2.


Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui
R
Roberto
Jul 7, 2004
Here’s a couple of sites that can help you calibrate your display using Gamma and Brightness controlls of your graphic card software:

http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/Gamma.htm

http://www.tsi.enst.fr/~brettel/TESTS/Gamma/Gamma.html

And here’s a small util for callibration (if you don’t want to use your graphic card software):

http://www.normankoren.com/QuickGammaV2EN.exe

"Branko Vukelic" wrote in message
Hmm. There seems to be a difference in opinions with various authors.
The thing is, Adobe Gamma was (is?) supposed to bring that 2.2 gamma to
1.8. Since newer graphic cards support gamma correction, you can achieve
the same thing via, say ATI Control Panel. That’s at least what I’ve heard. If it works for seasoned prepress pros, I don’t see any reason why it should not work for me.

Besides, Adobe Gamma’s been acting a bit odd lately (loosing profiles and things like that) so it has become a pain to use it.

"Hecate" wrote in message
On Tue, 6 Jul 2004 17:41:07 +0200, "Branko Vukelic" wrote:

If your graphic card can adjust gamma, you don’t need any additional software to callibrate your screen.

Open http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/figure01.gif in your browser. Set your gamma (through your graphic card software interface, a control panel,
or whatever) to 1.80 and adjust brightness of your monitor until the strips
match (you’ll have to view them with your eyes half-closed or from a distance of 2~3 m, i.e, 6~9 ft). If you pull it off right, you’ll have a callibrated display. The downside of this method is that no profile is produced. But the results are as good as using, for instance, Adobe Gamma.

You can find more info at:
http://www.unleash.com/mikec/color/
Only one problem with that advice. The Gamma you gave is for Apple monitors running Apple OS. The Gamma for a Win machine should be 2.2.


Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui

PW
Pjotr Wedersteers
Jul 7, 2004
Pjotr Wedersteers wrote:
Branko Vukelic wrote:
SyncMaster monitors (both CRT and TFT) usually (but not always) ship with "Natural Color" software which works pretty much like Adobe Gamma. It’s wizard like and it offers you a choice of lighting condition besides the standard features (if you can call them that given the fact that these are essencial parts of a soft-calib progs, etc, etc).

Thanks for your tip. I checked the Samsung site for something like Natural Colour, and all I found was something called MagicTune. Downloaded that (21mb) but unfortunately it says: Your screen is not supported.
I haven’t been able to find anything else that looked like a utlity. In the default download section all I found were PDF documents. I have already emailed Samsung support, but I admit my experience with big companies is 98% of mails remain unanswered. So I hope I can find help here!

Anyone has a (link to a) working colour-display-management-utility for my Samsung Syncmaster 191N ? TIA!!!
Pjotr

Thanks for all the links & tips guys! Great. I also must adjust my perception of large companies’ reply-to-mail policy. Samsung just sent me an email reply with the NaturalColor.zip for my monitor. Thanks to them as well.

I’ll be adjustin’ !
Cya!
Pjotr
H
Hecate
Jul 8, 2004
On Wed, 7 Jul 2004 06:03:35 +0200, "Branko Vukelic" wrote:

Hmm. There seems to be a difference in opinions with various authors.
The thing is, Adobe Gamma was (is?) supposed to bring that 2.2 gamma to 1.8. Since newer graphic cards support gamma correction, you can achieve the same thing via, say ATI Control Panel. That’s at least what I’ve heard. If it works for seasoned prepress pros, I don’t see any reason why it should not work for me.

Besides, Adobe Gamma’s been acting a bit odd lately (loosing profiles and things like that) so it has become a pain to use it.
I don’t use Gamma – I use Gretag Macbeth. 😉

However, one thing – whilst you do require a set up which uses a particular gamma for a specific colour space, and there is a difference between Macs and PCs, you can engage in a process called "false profiling " with a particular image. But, you need to have a correct profile to start with. 🙂



Hecate

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