removing shadows from flash shots

J
Posted By
Jason
May 22, 2006
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2057
Replies
6
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Closed
I have Googled and found some tutorials on how to remove shadows caused by flash shots of people against flat backgrounds, but my results haven’t been terrific. The best results I’ve achieved have been pretty laborious/painstaking, and they’re (just) OK – I wonder if folks have magic suggestions for doing it better. (Hope springs eternal, but I don’t count much on it… 🙂 )

TIA,

Jason

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R
Roberto
May 22, 2006
Don’t use flash. It makes everything look cold and dead anyways. Use exposure compensation instead. Or if your camera has the connectors get a dedicated flash that is up and away from the camera and lens or connected by a cable or has a swivel head for bouncing the flash.

R
ND
Norm Dresner
May 22, 2006
"Hebee Jeebes" wrote in message
| Don’t use flash. It makes everything look cold and dead anyways. Use | exposure compensation instead. Or if your camera has the connectors get a | dedicated flash that is up and away from the camera and lens or connected by
| a cable or has a swivel head for bouncing the flash.

An ancient photographer’s trick to soften flash — used since the days of the flashbulb — is to put a handkerchief over the flash to diffuse it. Commercial flash diffusers usually do this with translucent plastic but a few thicknesses of a white hanky work just fine.

Norm
N
noone
May 22, 2006
In article ,
says…
I have Googled and found some tutorials on how to remove shadows caused by flash shots of people against flat backgrounds, but my results haven’t been terrific. The best results I’ve achieved have been pretty laborious/painstaking, and they’re (just) OK – I wonder if folks have magic suggestions for doing it better. (Hope springs eternal, but I don’t count much on it… 🙂 )

TIA,

Jason

Jason,

As you have heard in other replies, bounce is a better solution, or a diffuser on the flash, mounted high and to the side of the lens axis. A bit of distance between the subject and the background surface helps too.

In PS (or other image manipulation programs), the best way to reduce the shadow IS laborious. One needs to Ctrl-J (duplicate the Layer), mask the subject (hair can be a real time-waster and there are some good tutorials on the Web for doing so – I’ll get you a URL, if you require), invert the Selection, then work on aspects of the shadow, i.e. contrast (Levels or Curves), and the softness (Gaussian Blur, or similar), knowing that to isolate just the shadow from the background and then Blur JUST the shadow can take a very, very long time. However, if one is shooting a person, then a total blur on the background would probably be in order. You might get a bit lucky, and be able to Blur the Background Layer (I’d change its name to something else to make sure that it is unlocked), and then use Layer Mask on your dupe Layer, to "paint" out the background in it, leaving the blurred background from the underlying Layer visible. You might also darken it a bit, when in Levels, or Curves, to "pop" your subject out from it. The trick will be to make sure that that part of the subject, appearing on the bottom Layer, doesn’t extend around the subject in the dupe Layer. One could adjust the Scale of the lower Level, to make it a bit smallere, because as you Blur it, it will "grow" slightly in size.

With time, and practice, you can do some pretty good stuff, however the lighting on your subject will still be un-diffused flash, which is less than flattering.

Hunt

PS let me know about the hair-mask tutorial, and I’ll go dig for it.
J
Jason
Jun 2, 2006
In article , says…

-snip-

As you have heard in other replies, bounce is a better solution, or a diffuser on the flash, mounted high and to the side of the lens axis. A bit of distance between the subject and the background surface helps too.

Thanks, Hunt. Unfortunately, I wasn’t the photographer in this case, just the fixer-upper…

I’ve worked out a couple of good procedures for selecting hair, tree leaves and the like; that part’s not the problem.

Your recommended procedure is pretty close to what I’d come up with, but you had some angles I hadn’t thought of.

I did some more googling and found an interesting tutorial that uses the Match Color adjustment. It had not occurred to me to consider this tool – Photoshop never fails to surprise!

http://www.inertia-llc.com/sandbox/tutorials/shadow-
matchcolor/index.html


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TN
Tom Nelson
Jun 2, 2006
My tutorial at http://www.tnphoto.com/tutor_c2.html is pretty old but might be of help.

Tom Nelson
Tom Nelson Photography
N
noone
Jun 3, 2006
In article ,
says…
In article , says…

-snip-

As you have heard in other replies, bounce is a better solution, or a
diffuser
on the flash, mounted high and to the side of the lens axis. A bit of
distance
between the subject and the background surface helps too.

Thanks, Hunt. Unfortunately, I wasn’t the photographer in this case, just the fixer-upper…

I’ve worked out a couple of good procedures for selecting hair, tree leaves and the like; that part’s not the problem.

Your recommended procedure is pretty close to what I’d come up with, but you had some angles I hadn’t thought of.

I did some more googling and found an interesting tutorial that uses the Match Color adjustment. It had not occurred to me to consider this tool – Photoshop never fails to surprise!

http://www.inertia-llc.com/sandbox/tutorials/shadow-
matchcolor/index.html


reverse my name in email address

You are correct, "Photoshop never fails to surprise!" I learn something new almost every week from this NG and I’ve had PS, since if first hit the PC. Amazing program and amazing folk in these NG’s. Glad you got a cure for it. I’ll check out the URL that you posted, and learn something new, too.

Hunt

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