Infrared Clean (ICE) will save you enough time and frustration with the 50% negatives you have to be more than worth it, assuming you’re talking about beau coup images.
Matter of fact, negs are worse than slides for dust, as everything shows up as white imperfections whereas they show as dark ones on slides, so each speck *really* stand out. You can spend 30 min cloning out dust from a negative scan from what appears to be a very clean neg.
Incidentally, if you pick a scanner model supported by VueScan, most users (including me), feel that VueScan’s IR Clean does a pretty decent job on Kodachromes, whereas ICE/FARE does not.
Mac
AM I missing something in my thinking? Thanks!
Yeah, sort of.
VueScan’s IR Clean only works with supported scanners that produce a separate IR channel.
IR Clean is same principle as Applied Science Fiction’s ICE (used in Nikon/Minolta scanners) or Canon’s FARE. It is merely Ed Hamrick’s own algorithm, as ICE/FARE have their own patents and the code can’t be duplicated and etc.
VueScan does support the Dual III, but since the scanner doesn’t produce an IR Channel, neither ICE nor IR Clean could of course work (or Minolta would bundle ICE with it). I believe it comes with its own "software only" dust/scratch thing, but folks say that doesn’t work very well (much like the Poloroid software only dust/scratch thing that one can download).
Complex mess, ain’t it?
Actually, for only 400 scans, you could probably live without dust/scratch fix.
Mac
Try a big camera shop for an Anti-static brush, and brush each strip of film before scanning.
Try a big camera shop for an Anti-static brush
Right on. I have the earlier Minolta Dimage Dual Scan II, and VueScan. I’ve scanned thousands of slides. I can highly recommend the Minolta Dual Scan II or III. The main difference is USB 1.1 vs, 2.0 which saves about 15 seconds per slide in batch mode on the III.
Good scanners…great value!
Bert
Kodachrome scans exhibit a notorious blue cast that is difficult to correct. Nikon Scan v3.1.2 software has a special setting that partly, but not completely, alleviates this problem. ICE Dust and Scratch Removal may work fairly well with some batches of K-Chromes, but may ruin others; no way to tell in advance; it seems to me that bad comes to worse in case of old Kodachrome II.
For a short period of time, Kodachrome was available in 120. I recently scanned some images from them, and was amazed at the sharpness I found. It convinced me that any criticism I have of scanned sharpness has to take into consideration the film.
I wish Kodachrome was still available.
Also, I am not aware of any blue cast out of the ordinary. Perhaps the shooters forgot to use a UV filter, mandatory with most films, but absolutely necessary with Kodachrome.
I’ve scanned tons of old Kodachromes from the 60’s and 70’s. Never noticed a blue cast. As you say, Larry, the ones that were taken with a good lens are very sharp with beautiful color. It’s the old Ektachromes that are giving me fits…many have a pronounced red cast. Fortunately, it is easily removable in most cases with Levels or Curves., but the color is still not as good as the Kodachromes.
Bert
So what’s the consensus advice? In my situation, would you go for the Dimage Scan Dual III together with a good anti-static brush (about $300 total), or should I dig up an additional $300 for either the Scan Elite II or Coolscan IVED (with ICE3)?
PSR… Only you can answer your own question because it simply boils down to how much time you are willing to spend cleaning up each slide/negative.
If your time is not that much of an issue to you than save the $300 and use an anti-static brush followed by software techniques to clean up your scans. On the other hand, if it’s important to minimize the amount of time spent digitizing your film, then spend the additional $300 and get a scanner with ICE (it definitely is a time-saver)!
I would add to photobug’s good advice:
Remember that the ICE will catch dust spots but not spots in the film itself. I find most old slides have other imperfections that must be cleaned up with the Clone Stamp tool.
I guess my slides were well stored. I don’t have much of a dust problem. I just give them a quick brush as I review them before scanning.
I’ve never used a scanner with the infrared though, so I can’t offer advice on that. For occasional scanning, I wouldn’t think it would be worth the extra money, but that’s just my personal opinion.
Bert
A dust gun is also a good tool.
Yep Mac, Kodachrome in 120.
Please Mr. K, bring it back!
PSR, should you decide to go for a scanner with ICE, I have one final thought for your consideration…
While at PMA 2003 in Las Vegas a couple of months ago, I was quite impressed with Pacific Image’s soon to be released PF3650PRO3 scanner (which incorporates Digital ICE3).
For somewhat less than the cost of either Minolta’s Scan Elite II or Nikon’s Coolscan IVED, the PF3650PRO3 operates at a greater optical resolution (3600 dpi) and its other specs are also very good! I really liked its automatic film loading features as well as its USB 2.0 and Firewire interfaces.
As you can probably tell, I’m standing in line waiting for it… 😉
Thanks to all for the advice and good info. After contemplating my situation, I’m sure I probably won’t be scanning any more than 300 – 400 slides/negs, so I think that I will get the Dimage Scan Dual III (along with an anti-static brush). That should do me fine until I my needs grow!
PSR,
I don’t think you will be unhappy with your decision. But do get the VueSCan software. It’s $40 well spent.
Bert
Except that pricing has become complicated: $39.95 $59.95 $79.95
huh???
Except that pricing has become complicated: $39.95 $59.95 $79.95 huh???
Referring to VueScan.
Mac
Didn’t know that. When I bought mine a year or so ago, it was one price, $39.35, I believe. Hamrick must have changed the product.
Mac,
Thanks for the update on VueScan. I guess I must be "grandfathered", which is appropriate, since I AM one! :o)
Bert
Is Vuescan available (at a discount) from any software resellers and is it the best software of its kind???
I don’t think you can buy it anywhere except from the designer, Ed Hamrick. Whether it is the best or not, I couldn’t say. I’ve been using it for over a year, and I like it. That’s one data point for you.
Bert
VS only available through the author (Ed Hamrick) at hamrick.com
It and the more expensive SilverFast are really the only two "independent" scanning softwares I know of.
Mac
