I would put the top layer to difference blending mode, and position it using the arrows. You’ll see when it matches… Another solution is to lower the opacity of the top layer…
Yyou might even need to use transform to rotate it slightly, but then you’ll have resampling, and I would suggest taking two other images that you don’t need to rotate…
Happy Photoshopping!
Is there a sort of "snap to" function in Photoshop that will help me do this, or must I rely on the move and/or rotate tools to do it by eye?
Choose the "Move" tool then drag one image onto the other whilst holding down the Shift key.
capture images on film and then scan them, so though I shot with camera on tripod, the film may sit slighly differently in the scanner’s film holder rendering the images not quite identical.
Hopefully luck will be on your side.
Pierre –
I don’t think the difference technique would be that effective in this situation, since the picture are different; thus, they will neve cancal out.
I would choose some small, clearly identifiable feature, reduce the opacity of the top layer and use the move tool. . . then zoom in, and use the arrow keys to nudge it just so.
I think it all but impossible to get two different slide scans to register exactly but it can be done so that the difference is not visible using one or more of the suggestions above. Digital camera images are a lot easier to do this with. An alternative, if your scanner supports it, is to use different gain settings on a single slide to get different exposures but noisy shadows may be a problem.
Kurt & Mike,
If you "over scan" so the negative image edge or slide mount edge is included in the image, you will have pretty good guides even if the picture is intentionally soft.
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Noisy shadows may be a problem. But if you layer the pictures so the darker exposure (scan) is on top, you can erase the darker shadows letting the less dark ones show through.
I decide which exposure to have on top based on the amount of work needed for erasing and normally set the eraser at 10% with a very soft brush making multiple "passes" depending on the particular area I’m working with. The size I use varies a lot and seldom is the same from "pass" to "pass".
Bill
Why use the eraser except for "quick and dirty" work…?
Here’s what you do. Put the rocks in the top layer. Then create a mask with everything included. Then use the lasso to select just the rocks, then expand the selection by, say 5 px, then feather the selection; inverse select it, then paint that area black in your mask to conceal the sky.
Then apply different curves to the rocks, until you get what you need.
Tweak as needed. But as someone said, using adjustment tools adjusts "reality" and looks unnatural if taken too far.
Hello
I regularly use this method.My Nikon LS 50 is very accurate as long as you don’t close Nikon Scan between passes.I just use the move tool with shift to overlay the scans. I use layer options to choose the tones I want. There should be no problem with a camera on a tripod, as long as there is absoloutely no movement. This is not so easy to achieve. You would have to touch the camera to change the settings, enough to move it a few pixels.
Mike Engles
