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In article <1Qwja.15559$>,
"Eyron" wrote:
Depends what you mean by macro. With film it’s easy – is the resulting image bigger or smaller than the negative size?
Digital is a bit more different as you tend to reduce, not enlarge – assuming the screen resolution to be 72 pixels per inch.
Macro assumes 1:1 or greater. Macro works best when the depth of field is greatest and most of the subject is in focus. Add-on lenses tend to reduce DOF as does enlarging the aperture.
My advice would be shoot at maximum megapixel size your camera can handle and crop down to the main subject – this will determine what size you can print.
"Eyron" wrote:
I currently use a 70-300G Nikon lense with a 6T for macro work with my Nikon F80.
I understand that I can get to a max. of 1:1 magnification this way. If I add my 2X extender will that give me 2:1 max?
Also I have a Fuji S2 Pro.
With the same setup would I get 1.5:1 without the extender and 3:1 with it because of the size of the ccd? (ccd is 2/3 size of film)
Depends what you mean by macro. With film it’s easy – is the resulting image bigger or smaller than the negative size?
Digital is a bit more different as you tend to reduce, not enlarge – assuming the screen resolution to be 72 pixels per inch.
Macro assumes 1:1 or greater. Macro works best when the depth of field is greatest and most of the subject is in focus. Add-on lenses tend to reduce DOF as does enlarging the aperture.
My advice would be shoot at maximum megapixel size your camera can handle and crop down to the main subject – this will determine what size you can print.
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