Hi, I’ve been running photoshop 7 for a while now, but my PC just isn’t cutting it. I have a Pentium II, 64MB SDRam, Windows 98, etc. I’m not sure what else is in that thing, but photoshop runs really slow. I’ve been told that a few things might speed things up such as a faster processor (?), more RAM which I know I need, etc. So, I think I’m probably in the market for a whole new system (more than likely). I’ve been hitting a brick wall everytime I try to get information. I’ve been told to just get more RAM and things will be fine, but I’ve also been told to revamp the whole system or just buy new. I’m thinking strongly of buying Windows XP so that I can upgrade to Photoshop CS, but can anyone out there tell me what I will need to run Photoshop (either 7 or CS) faster? It takes several minutes to do simple things such as transform. Could someone please reply to this… I need help! Thanks.
For your present system, you most definitely need more RAM. I have found PS needs a minimum of 512Mb to operate well, although some tweaks may be needed to make W98 handle that memory efficiently.
A PII is not the platform on which to build a CS/XP empire. The most cost effective solutions are now offered by AMD, especially if you’re interested in dual processors (you may not be, but I am :)) Your new box should have a minimum of 1G of RAM and preferably more. You will need at least 2 hard drives, one for OS and apps and another for PS scratch. There have been many threads dealing with these issues. If you do some serious searching you can find all the info you need.
Thank you both for responding to me… Can either of you (or anyone else) tell me what I should be looking for when going to upgrade or buy new? For example specifics on the following: Windows, hard drive (type and space?), RAM, Processor, motherboard?, Video Card?, anything else I may have missed… I am hardware stupid. 🙂 I know programs, but not hardware and I want to get the best out of Photoshop! I love that program. Someone mentioned "dual processors", not sure what that means… AMD I understand, but not dual processors or having two hard drives. Thanks a million to anyone answering these questions! You have no idea how much this helps… I don’t want to be taken for a ride by the guy across the counter trying to sell me things I don’t need. Thanks
There are so many hardware configurations that it would be impractical to discuss the pros and cons of each one. These guidelines are a good baseline for a professional’s system.
Get all the RAM you can afford (1G min), preferably dual channel 400mhz DDR.
Get a fast processor, but not *the* fastest ($$$$). Dual processors mean just that–you have 2 of them. Not necessary unless you crave power and multi task a lot. AMD is a good choice no matter which configuration, dual or single, you choose. My preference is the Opteron.
Get at least 2 120G hard drives, 3 if your case can hold them and your budget can stand it. If you have money to burn, look into RAID 0. If not, forget you ever saw the term (RAID 0).
Get a multi-format DVD burner for backup and archiving.
Get a good video card, but you don’t really need some super-duper, 128Mb, 3D enabled gaming/rendering card (unless you are into gaming or rendering). Matrox has long been held in high esteem by Photoshoppers, but you probably won’t find that brand widely available from places like Dell, Sony, HP, etc.
Get a CRT monitor, not the trendy flat panels that look cool but render colors poorly (except for the very expensive ones).
There are a few other considerations, but without knowing how you intend to use Photoshop, there’s no point in going on much further. If you are NOT going to be using PS professionally and don’t want to spend a wad of money on a computer, bear in mind that almost anything you buy new will seem like greased lightning compared to what you are using now.
Dear Ho, Thank you so much for your information! It is so helpful! Like I mentioned, my computer is running VERY slow. I’m having it looked at soon to be "cleaned up" and evaluated for my purposes. However, I want to know something about what I’m talking about before any "techs" get their hands on it and tell me that I need to spend a fortune. I’m a lady taking my "car" into a "garage". 🙂 I’ll tell you exactly what I’m running on:
– Pentium II processor and from what I can remember around 600Mhz – 64MB SDRAM – 12.7GB Hard Drive which is 1/2 full (junked up with programs that I don’t know and am not sure if I should delete – spyware I’m assuming) – Yamaha 24x10x40 CD Burner – Video Card… not sure what’s in there – not into gaming though – 17" Samsung SyncMaster 750s Monitor (color can change in print out) – Epson Stylus CX5400 Printer/Copier/Scanner
That sort of answers what you put in your message… which, like you said, anything else will be like "greased lightning". I do have some money to put into this, but not too much. The purpose of my computer is for making a little extra cash. I do photography and press kits for local bands. I’m absolutely in love with photoshop and hate being slowed down. I’ve printed off what you wrote and will take this with me… if you or anyone else has any furhter suggestions, I’d love to hear them! I guess the basic question that needs to be answered is whether or not I can upgrade anything, or just buy new? If an upgrade is possible… which and what should I do? Thanks to all! Sandie
I’ve given you just enough information to be dangerous. Talk to other Photoshop/graphics pros and read as much as you can before dealing with your system builder.
You really can’t upgrade what you have because of its age. Even if you found an upgrade processor that would work in your computer, you are limited by your Motherboard to a small amount of RAM, obsolete system buses, and an inadequate power supply. If money is really tight, you can find new P4 systems for less than $1000… sometimes much less. Just be wary of buying anything that doesn’t have a boatload of RAM, or can’t be upgraded to boatload status. If you have to settle for a single hard drive, make sure there is an open bay for a second drive and slap one in there as soon as you have the means to do so.
Thanks Ho, You have been extremely helpful. That is exactly what I needed to know… that it would be more hassle… and more money to upgrade as I would have to upgrade everything. One last question… What is the purpose of a second hard drive? Thanks… I will be on the look out for new. Sandie
Photoshop works best when you can place its scratch file (PS Virtual Memory) on a separate hard drive, a small but very effective tweak. The best approach is to make a 10-15G partition (larger if you work on huge files) for PS scratch. You can use the remainder of the drive for extra storage.
Gotch’ya! I’ll probably strip the old drive out of my old computer and have it put into the new one I buy. Thanks… I was also reading a lot on another post about PSCS vs. PS7. I got a lot of useful info there on what other people are using too. This will help when I go to buy something new. I’m really glad that this forum is here! Sandie I was also reading something about OS’s and that 2K was better than XP. Do you agree?
If you’re buying a new machine, you might as well go with the current version of Windows. As you’re now running Win98, there will be a period of adjustment as you get used to the assorted differences in appearance and operation, but at least XP can be tweaked to closely resemble the older interface.
Regarding PS7 vs CS though, if you are comfortable using PS7, and it does what you need it to do, there is really no reason to blow your money on CS.
You said you were running Win-98. Is this Win-98 or Win-98-SE? If just plain 98, see if a local custom system builder has a copy of SE gathering dust on a back shelf. THAT would be a significant up-grade.
I ran PS-7 on P-II 266 with 128 meg memory and two hard drives. It was NOT fun. That is why I now use an AMD XP-1700+ 3/4 gig memory system. Changing over to XP-Home was for non-Photoshop reasons.
And listen to Dennis. If V-7 does what you need it to do, there is no reason to go to CS. I needed, for what I do, what it offered so I bought it after a couple of weeks of using the download trial edition.
Thanks guys! I’m very familiar with PS7 and love it. My boyfriend keeps on trying to get me to dowlaod a try & buy of Paint Shop Pro 8, but I’m having so much fun with PS7 that I really don’t want to learn a new program right now (same for CS, I guess). I know it’s an upgrade, but I was trying to figure out whether to go the extra mile or not. I think I’ll stick with my PS7. I’ll still debate on the higher windows though.
Tell me something… I got this information from a company here in town and I wanted to know if this sounds like a good system to work with:
AMD XP 2500+ Barton CPU Retailed Boxed Asus Asrock K7S41 Motherboard 40GB 7200RPM Hard Drive LG 52X CDROM 350W P4 Case with Front USB 2.0 256M DDR Memory 64M DDR Prosavage 3D Video Card 6USB2.0, Sound, LAN, Drivers and Utilities, Keyboard, Optical Mouse, Woofer Speakers $440 Canadian
Upgrades: Add 56K Modem $10 CAD – I use High Speed (do I need this?) Add Windows XP CD&Lic $140 CAD Upgrade from 40GB HD to 80GB $20 CAD Add another 256M DDR – Special $55 CAD D-Link DFE-538TX Network Card $15 CAD (do I need this either?)
Also, I already have the following that I am going to strip out: Yamaha CD-RW Burner 24x10x40 Monitor, Epson Printer Hard Drive for a second Hard Drive
I think that’s about it. I was also told by someone else to make sure that my new system can hold a boatload of RAM.
Can someone please tell me if this is a good deal and if these specs will do what I need them to? Just plain run fast is what I’m looking for. I’d prefer to do a band poster in 5 hours instead of 10. 🙂 San…
get them to put in at least a 400 watt power supply, and have them install a couple of extra fans! bump the memory to 1 gig. those shouldn’t add much more than a couple hundred (mostly for the ram) to the system, and you won’t be sorry.
Thanks, will do. Do I need a network card? By the way, I really appreciate everyone’s input into this. It’s nice to talk to people who aren’t going to "gain" from telling me what I need. San…
Hey Sandie, the Asus Asrock is the low end of motherboards I think if it’s the same as here in England. You might find it restricts you in terms of what memory you can put in – the one I’ve seen can only take a max of 512 Mb of 400DDR. Spend an extra $20-30 and get a decent Asus board and as Dave said, get lots of RAM for Photoshop. Better to go for 512 sticks – much more economical and it will give you space to put in another one.
Thanks again! 🙂 Yeah, I sort of figured out the Network thing on my own after I posted my last message… actually felt kind of stupid! LOL I installed my own ethernet card a while ago! Thanks for the advice on the motherboard! I’ll write that down too!
If anyone else has any suggestions… please let me know. I’ll be looking into buying soon, so I’d like to collect as much info as I can. Thanks to all! San…
Have you considered using 2 monitors instead of 1? It’s heaven to have all your palettes on the second monitor (doesn’t need to be a high-end one). It doesn’t make your computer faster obviously but it does make you work faster; no need to close palettes or constantly move them around. Once you experienced this luxury I promise you’ll never want to go back to a single monitor setup.
Sandy, tell them you want a motherboard that holds at least 2 GB of RAM. And no, you won’t need a modem if you’re using a high-speed connection (cable, DSL, etc.).
Right you are, Mac. Broadband isn’t available to me, so I haven’t experienced it’s reliability. <g> Also hadn’t considered the fax angle, I have a dedicated fax machine. Anyway, as cheap as modems are, might as well go ahead and strap one in there.
FWIW, I have no dialup backup. I don’t think I could deal with the slow speeds anyway. When I got DSL it was 640/90 and cost $50.00/month. We’re now at 1500/384 for $30.00/month and the new 3000/768 should be available in the next few weeks.
BellSouth DSL gives you backup dialup with DSL account. Not yours? BS has already rolled out the 3MBPS service option. Of course US DSL is still the slowest DSL in the world.
I use cable, been extremely reliable also. I still need dialup for the little bit of traveling I do, though, and keep an ATT dial account I’ve had for years (Comcast does not give the extra dialup account).
I’m using Verizon and with the last upgrade they canned the free dialup back up. I never used it anyway. I’m looking forward to the new speeds and since I only live 3,000 feet from the CO, I’m in good shape.
AMD XP 2500+ Barton CPU Retailed Boxed Asus Asrock K7S41 Motherboard
You may want to up the ante a bit and get a board with a little more headroom. The 256Mb of memory just will NOT do, even for PS7. XP or 2K will want more memory than W98, and PS is just starting to run good with 512Mb.
First rule of providing PS with RAM: Buy all you think you can afford, then add a Gig.
I would also advise, if budget permits, a socket 939 or 940 board. One of these will cost more up front, but allow you some breathing room in the future.
Note: I am not endorsing Monarch computer, Pricewatch just happened to return these links when I searched for AMD motherboards.
It’s always a good idea to buy more horsepower than you think you’ll need. I’ve erred on the conservative side before and regretted it less than six months later.
I have Verizon DSL also, Robert, and they have never offered free dial-up as part of their DSL service in southern California. It’s always been a for-fee add-on, unfortunately.
And yes, Sandie, you should have a dial-up modem installed in your computer. DSL is generally reliable, but when it goes down, it goes down. If you care about access, you will be careful enough to install a modem.
Mac – no Australian DSL is unequivocally the slowest in the developed world. We can go no faster than 1500/512, and that costs an arm and a leg and has strictly applied download limits. We suffer from a monopoly supplier of wholesale bandwidth plus big distances and a small population increasing the costs. I’d have a modem installed for what it’s worth – although the only time my DSL has failed is when the builder next door dug up the phone line. Susan S
I disagree that DSL in the U.S. is the "slowest in the world". It may be more expensive, or not as widely available as, say, South Korea, but if you have the money and the access you can get as much bandwidth here as the depth of your pocket allows.
I find it to be a bargain…at least in my neck of the woods in New Jersey. You simply can’t beat 1500/384 (certainly not slow) for $30.00/month. Cable is 3000/512 but it’s $45.00. The local cable company doesn’t offer news servers, either.
I’m waiting to see what Verizon will charge for upcoming 3000/768 service. If they keep it under $50.00, I’ll probably go for it.
Most places in US, DSL residential is 1.5MBPS down max. Some places now 3.0. Just because you can get 1.5 does not mean you can upgrade to 3. Distance from CO/DSLAM, IFITL not compatible, etc.
Depending on location, business accounts can get you more bandwidth for arm and a leg.
Most countries around the world offer higher speed comsumer DSL. Sorry to hear about Oz, Susan.
And those distances are constantly changing with new technology. Luckily I’m right around the corner from my CO but I know people that could only get 768/128 until a couple of weeks ago and can now get 1500/384.
DSL modems themselves have something to do with it. The new Westell and 2wire models used by BellSouth claim to extend usable distance, for example. I suppose other manufacturer’s same.
By the way, did you know that every phone filter you need to add is same as increasing distance by 500-700 feet?
You can also be TOO close to CO, too "hot" a signal to stay in sync. Simple fix is that tech comes out and simply adds phone line and coils it up somewhere 🙂
Speed doesn’t really drop much far from CO as folks think until you get to critical length area, maybe 16K feet and beyond. Then, DSL uses more and more of its bandwidth just to STAY in sync.
Adding phone filters has absolutely NO effect on DSL signal attenuation.
Apologies in advance for the off-topic thread continuation…
I’m not electrical engineer, but deal with DSL support and talk to our Digital Service Group and Network Operations Center daily in my "fulltime parttime I hope it doesn’t last much longer in additon to my regular business job".
As I understand it, loop length affects capacitance, and filters have capacitors and resistors.
We routinely get folks who are at extremes of CO length back in sync by removing 2 or 3 phone filters, and indeed, will not guarantee service, even within 18K’ with over 6 filters on the phone line (which is not in the fine print anywhere).
I can see the noise margin change on every filter change even with the crude line tests available to us Tier 1 and 2 techs. Noise margin target is 10-30db. With no filters in home at all, noise margin goes lower the farther from CO/remote DSLAM. At any distance, noise margin goes lower with each filter added.
In addition to adding physical line to a "too hot" connection (too close to CO, with too high a noise margin), installers sometimes use the crude method of putting filters in tandem on one jack somewhere in home to get noise margin back in the 10-30db range, equivalent of being farther from the CO.
Somewhere there is a spec from a DSL filter maker I’ve seen with all the normal electical specs I don’t understand, but which states the 200-700′ per filter equivalent, which I do understand. If I can find it again, will post.
Here is specsheet from one commonly used brand: http://svr2.hometech.com/pdf/ex-z275p2j.pdf Note the StopBand Attenutation increase from single filter use, which I believe relates to this topic?
Meanwhile, a search at DSLreports will find some discussions re that.
A simple statement from the Verizon FAQ there:
"Q: Filter Vs splitter (#1324) A: A splitter is preferred over a filter. Having a splitter has been known to increase your bandwidth a little because the filters add line length. And extra line length on an already long line can be detrimental."
I stand corrected. I should have learned by now that absolute statements are seldom valid.
And I should have been more careful in the distinction between filters and splitters. I misspoke, and was thinking "splitter" when I typed "filter".
Splitters are used in the C.O. – that much I can attest from personal experience, as I’ve changed out enough of them in my years working at Verizon. The use of the term "splitter" is still common when referring to the customer prem equipment, even though it is inaccurate.
My bad.
(Though I have to add that I had not to this point ever heard of a situation where removing excess filters was the solution to a loop length issue. The most common faults are bridge taps, foreign voltage & ground, and cable makeup – gauge too narrow, etc.)
No worries.. Just one of those things I’m actually more involved with than I want to be 🙂
And you’re right, the things you mention ARE more common. Just that the filter thing can be the last straw on a "barely" synced connection, especially if too much of the bandwidth is being used JUST to stay in sync.
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