Crop tool automation

"Phil M" wrote in message

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Sample of the non-standard 35mm frame here:

http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions.

It sounds like an interesting project. I have too much time on my hands, I will take a stab at it.

Rudy

"All_Thumbs" wrote in message

"Phil M" wrote in message

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Sample of the non-standard 35mm frame here:

http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions.

It sounds like an interesting project. I have too much time on my hands, I will take a stab at it.

Rudy

Phil, please email me at rudy @ rudybenner dot com.

"All_Thumbs" wrote in message

"Phil M" wrote in message

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Sample of the non-standard 35mm frame here:

http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions.

It sounds like an interesting project. I have too much time on my hands, I will take a stab at it.

Rudy

I am having some success by creating a 3520×2633 SELECTION instead of a crop, then using the MARQUEE tool to the top frame in the appropriate place, copy and paste to a new file, move the selection down to the bottom frame, copy and paste into a second new file. This is all recorded into an action. From File>Automate>Batch I call this action. I have not quite gotten to the batch part, but the action works, creating two new files. Some fine tuning would be required to get it exactly right. Anyway, this may be enough to give you some joy or at least an excuse to consume too much alcohol.

I have a meeting to attend, I may take another whack at it later.

Rudy

I am having some success by creating a 3520×2633 SELECTION instead of a crop, then using the MARQUEE tool to the top frame in the appropriate place,

Thanks Rudy for the suggestion.

Here are some more files:
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor2.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor3.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor4.jpg

Keep in mind that the Nikon Coolscan is not a pin registered scanner, as a result, the positioning of the images inside the frame are not necessarily at the same coordinates. The only constant I have is the SIZE; NOT POSITION! Therefore, an action may not work correctly; unless if there’s a way to make the marquee "snap" individually to the top and side of each image… Which I highly doubt.

This is why I asked, if there’s any shortcut to bring up a crop frame to have a size of 3520×2633; then I’ll position it manually. This step would save lots of time.

Thanks.

"Phil M" wrote in message

I am having some success by creating a 3520×2633 SELECTION instead of a crop, then using the MARQUEE tool to the top frame in the appropriate place,

Thanks Rudy for the suggestion.

Here are some more files:
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor2.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor3.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor4.jpg

Keep in mind that the Nikon Coolscan is not a pin registered scanner, as a result, the positioning of the images inside the frame are not necessarily at the same coordinates. The only constant I have is the SIZE; NOT POSITION! Therefore, an action may not work correctly; unless if there’s a way to make the marquee "snap" individually to the top and side of each image… Which I highly doubt.

This is why I asked, if there’s any shortcut to bring up a crop frame to have a size of 3520×2633; then I’ll position it manually. This step would save lots of time.

Thanks.

when you select the tool
type in your proportions in the boxes
make sure to write in px not inches (it will come up in what you have the rulers set to inches or cm or px)
or you will crash

I am not sure how to insure the position
unless you can specify the center of the crop as an x, y point? but I do not know how to do it

"Phil M" wrote in message

I am having some success by creating a 3520×2633 SELECTION instead of a crop, then using the MARQUEE tool to the top frame in the appropriate place,

Thanks Rudy for the suggestion.

Here are some more files:
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor2.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor3.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor4.jpg

Keep in mind that the Nikon Coolscan is not a pin registered scanner, as a result, the positioning of the images inside the frame are not necessarily at the same coordinates. The only constant I have is the SIZE; NOT POSITION! Therefore, an action may not work correctly; unless if there’s a way to make the marquee "snap" individually to the top and side of each image… Which I highly doubt.

This is why I asked, if there’s any shortcut to bring up a crop frame to have a size of 3520×2633; then I’ll position it manually. This step would save lots of time.

Thanks.

Yes, that may complicate things.

"Phil M" wrote in message

I am having some success by creating a 3520×2633 SELECTION instead of a crop, then using the MARQUEE tool to the top frame in the appropriate place,

Thanks Rudy for the suggestion.

Here are some more files:
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor2.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor3.jpg
http://s135598769.onlinehome.us/vericolor4.jpg

Keep in mind that the Nikon Coolscan is not a pin registered scanner, as a result, the positioning of the images inside the frame are not necessarily at the same coordinates. The only constant I have is the SIZE; NOT POSITION! Therefore, an action may not work correctly; unless if there’s a way to make the marquee "snap" individually to the top and side of each image… Which I highly doubt.

This is why I asked, if there’s any shortcut to bring up a crop frame to have a size of 3520×2633; then I’ll position it manually. This step would save lots of time.

Thanks.

You are better off going with a Marquee of Fixed size, perhaps 3425 and 2525 will be better numbers to get rid of the rounded corners. Select marquee tool, under style select fixed size, enter the above numbers. Put the marquee where you want, copy and paste into a new file. Do it again for the second half, you will have two new images. This is where I am getting brain locked. Saving them in a meaningful and painless way. Maybe I will let the Meat Computer run it as a background task while I sleep. Tomorrow after physiotherapy, I will take another look.

No, the action did not work like I wanted for the reason you mentioned.

If I knew what I was doing, I would be dangerous.

r.

Phil M wrote:

[..]

This is why I asked, if there’s any shortcut to bring up a crop frame to have a size of 3520×2633; then I’ll position it manually. This step would save lots of time.

You can set the marquee tool to the dimensions you want and then drag the selection around where you want it. Select the marquee tool and then set Style: to Fixed Size.

Ideally, this cropping would have been done at the scan stage.

If the black borders were always in the same place, you could use a command-line tool like ImageMagick or GraphicsMagick to crop them all in one go.

Are your original scans also JPEGs?

This is the process:

Scans are 16-bit TIFF (14-bit color depth due to film scanner limitations) , Wide Gamut RGB, unsharpened. It’s a 138 meg TIFF file.

THEN This is the manual time consuming process which I’m trying to find a solution: Each 138meg image is manually opened, crop the top, save, go back in history, crop the bottom, save, delete the file and start over. Time Consuming! I need to find an easier solution.

Then, after the images are cropped and saved again in 16-bit uncompressed TIFF, the process is left as an overnight batch: Kodak ROC color restoration filter, auto levels/contrast/color, noise ninja’ed, USM’ed, Wide Gamut RGB then converted to 8-bit, and saved as lossless Jpeg2000. Since this process is automated overnight, some inaccuracies may occur, therefore in the morning I check each image and I go manually over the images which need manual correction. Then burned to DVD-R. After cropping it’s approx a 12 meg lossless JP2 file .

I just posted an sRGB over-compressed jpg version on my server for quick preview purposes. But that shouldn’t be a problem.

FYI, these are filmstrips made to run in a DuKane AV projector. Any veterans who can tells us a bit on how these images were made and put in these 35mm motion picture filmstrips?

Phil M wrote:

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Photoshop has ‘Automate – Crop and Straighten Photos’ which does what you want: it crops individual photos out of a scan of multiple photos. I’ve never used it, so I don’t know how well it works, but it worth a try.

—
Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl

On Wed, 1 Nov 2006 15:21:25 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up,

Thanks for any suggestions.

JPEGCrops faq

Q: Why can’t I just use PhotoShop?

You can use PhotoShop, Gimp, PaintShop Pro, PhotoFiltre or whatever program you fancy for cropping. If your normal workflow includes sharpening, fiddling with color levels and so on, it will probably be easier to incorporate cropping than switching to JPEGCrops.

If you just want to crop a lot of images, JPEGCrops will most probably be a lot faster and easier than the mentioned programs.

Dave

On Wed, 1 Nov 2006 15:21:25 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

A different way of doing this is to change the canvas size, which by default crops equal amounts off of each edge.

jc

—

"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare’s Nest, PA

A reordering of the steps might help here

Thanks for the suggestion. I don’t think it’s possible since if I convert to 8-bit in order to crop, and then I do the image processing in 8-bit it doesn’t make sense. Alternately, if I do image processing to both uncropped images, then again, the settings would be a compromise between the best that suit 2 images.

I take it that there’s nothing presently available that can make a crop tool of specific dimensions appear with a single shortcut in CS2. I even tried recording an action, but the action will record only when the crop will be applied… So for the time being, I’ll go trough images manually.

Thanks all.

On Wed, 1 Nov 2006 15:21:25 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960 scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Try Automate – Crop and Straighten Photos

I’ve used it when I have scanned about 5 pictures at once. It automatically crops and rotates all pictures and puts them in individual files. It has problems if the pictures are a bit close together otherwise it seems to work fine.

"rmd" wrote in message

On Wed, 1 Nov 2006 15:21:25 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

I scanned several thousands of non standard 35mm frame slides and I have to
go trough each and every scan and crop out the slide. On each file I use 3520×2633 pixels crop.

Is there any way to create a shortcut that a W3520xH2633 crop frame would appear automatically?

Details: I have Photoshop CS2. I’m scanning 35mm Vericolor Internegative duplicating motion picture film with my Nikon Coolscan V, and each 3950×5960
scan holds 2 photo frames; therefore, I want to crop out both 3520×2633 frames out of each file. I have to repeat this 1600 times! If there’s a way
to automatically make the crop fame the right size, it would speed things up, as the only thing remaining to do would be just to position the crop frame appropriately. I wouldn’t dare asking if there’s anything out there that would automatically batch crop and save each frame? is there? If not, a
shortcut to crate a 3520×2633 crop frame would be enough.

Try Automate – Crop and Straighten Photos

I’ve used it when I have scanned about 5 pictures at once. It automatically crops and rotates all pictures and puts them in individual files. It has problems if the pictures are a bit close together otherwise it seems to work fine.

I tried it, does not work right, at least only a partial solution.

Granny typed:
I put your four samples into a folder "SAMPLES".. opened one and set view to actual pixels.. created an action set called "crop this" then a new action for the "top" slides.. using the measure tool on the left side.. measured just inside the active frame to the left outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.034 inches… started recording action… image, canvas size.. anchored right side center.. entered width (minus) -.034 .. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame top to the top outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.065.. image, canvas size.. anchored bottom center.. entered height (minus) -.065… OK.. measured just inside the active frame on the right to the right outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.078… image, canvas size.. anchored left side center. entered width (minus) -.078.. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame bottom to bottom outer edge of canvas.. for a measurement of -.772.. image, canvas size.. anchored top centered.. entered height (minus) -.772… OK.. Proceed.. Stop recording..

deleted all history and created another action set "Bottom" same as above.. but with new measurements applicable to the bottom frame… made two new folders "TOP" "BOTTOM"

file, automate, batch… set=crop this.. action=top.. source=folder.. choose="SAMPLES".. destination=folder… choose="TOP".. then do it again for the bottom..
I realize that some may be off a little because they were not pinned.. but this will sure get you close with just a little fixing up to do later (like the round corners, with the clone tool, or maybe some missed bottoms or sides) unless they are really way off… but I think it will be a time saver…

You can rename the pictures in the "bottom" folder with an appended "A" and they can be put back in order with the top pictures.. This may be a long way around your problem or not even work for what you need.. But, we are just trying to simplify the enormous task you have ahead of you.. Good Luck and stay SANE !!
night, night
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

"granny" wrote in message

Granny typed:
I put your four samples into a folder "SAMPLES".. opened one and set view to actual pixels.. created an action set called "crop this" then a new action for the "top" slides.. using the measure tool on the left side.. measured just inside the active frame to the left outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.034 inches… started recording action… image, canvas size.. anchored right side center.. entered width (minus) -.034 .. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame top to the top outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.065.. image, canvas size.. anchored bottom center.. entered height (minus) -.065… OK.. measured just inside the active frame on the right to the right outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.078… image, canvas size.. anchored left side center. entered width (minus) -.078.. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame bottom to bottom outer edge of canvas.. for a measurement of -.772.. image, canvas size.. anchored top centered.. entered height (minus) -.772… OK.. Proceed.. Stop recording..

deleted all history and created another action set "Bottom" same as above.. but with new measurements applicable to the bottom frame… made two new folders "TOP" "BOTTOM"

file, automate, batch… set=crop this.. action=top.. source=folder.. choose="SAMPLES".. destination=folder… choose="TOP".. then do it again for the bottom..
I realize that some may be off a little because they were not pinned.. but this will sure get you close with just a little fixing up to do later (like the round corners, with the clone tool, or maybe some missed bottoms or sides) unless they are really way off… but I think it will be a time saver…

You can rename the pictures in the "bottom" folder with an appended "A" and they can be put back in order with the top pictures.. This may be a long way around your problem or not even work for what you need.. But, we are just trying to simplify the enormous task you have ahead of you.. Good Luck and stay SANE !!
night, night
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

I hope you realize that I will now have to try this. I had given up on this project.

SIGH.

r.

"All_Thumbs" wrote in message

"granny" wrote in message

Granny typed:
I put your four samples into a folder "SAMPLES".. opened one and set view to actual pixels.. created an action set called "crop this" then a new action for the "top" slides.. using the measure tool on the left side.. measured just inside the active frame to the left outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.034 inches… started recording action… image, canvas size.. anchored right side center.. entered width (minus) -.034 .. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame top to the top outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.065.. image, canvas size.. anchored bottom center.. entered height (minus) -.065… OK.. measured just inside the active frame on the right to the right outer edge of canvas for a measurement of -.078… image, canvas size.. anchored left side center. entered width (minus) -.078.. OK.. Proceed.. measured just inside the active frame bottom to bottom outer edge of canvas.. for a measurement of -.772.. image, canvas size.. anchored top centered.. entered height (minus) -.772… OK.. Proceed.. Stop recording..
deleted all history and created another action set "Bottom" same as above.. but with new measurements applicable to the bottom frame… made two new folders "TOP" "BOTTOM"

file, automate, batch… set=crop this.. action=top.. source=folder.. choose="SAMPLES".. destination=folder… choose="TOP".. then do it again for the bottom..
I realize that some may be off a little because they were not pinned.. but this will sure get you close with just a little fixing up to do later (like the round corners, with the clone tool, or maybe some missed bottoms or sides) unless they are really way off… but I think it will be a time saver…

You can rename the pictures in the "bottom" folder with an appended "A" and they can be put back in order with the top pictures.. This may be a long way around your problem or not even work for what you need.. But, we are just trying to simplify the enormous task you have ahead of you.. Good Luck and stay SANE !!
night, night
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

I hope you realize that I will now have to try this. I had given up on this project.

SIGH.

r.

Ok, I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility you will find the appropriate file there. I have included the original jpeg files, the cropped results, a couple of snapshots of the batch setup and the action file.

Comments welcome.

rudy at rudybenner dot com

Granny typed:
[snip]

I hope you realize that I will now have to try this. I had given up on this project.
SIGH.
r.

Ok, I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility Comments welcome.

rudy at rudybenner dot com

Thanks for refining the action and publishing it…. I am new at this and using vers 7.. Your action is much cleaner and lot faster! It works well with vers 7 also.. U did good!!.. hope it helps..
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

"granny" wrote in message

Granny typed:
[snip]

I hope you realize that I will now have to try this. I had given up on this project.
SIGH.
r.

Ok, I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility Comments welcome.

rudy at rudybenner dot com

Thanks for refining the action and publishing it…. I am new at this and using vers 7.. Your action is much cleaner and lot faster! It works well with vers 7 also.. U did good!!.. hope it helps..
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

Gee thanks Granny. I am sure the OP will want to take things much further.

I am not happy with the method of saving the files, perhaps there is a better way to do it. Someone else can figure that part out.

"All_Thumbs" wrote in message

"granny" wrote in message

Granny typed:
[snip]

I hope you realize that I will now have to try this. I had given up on this project.
SIGH.
r.

Ok, I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility Comments welcome.

rudy at rudybenner dot com

Thanks for refining the action and publishing it…. I am new at this and using vers 7.. Your action is much cleaner and lot faster! It works well with vers 7 also.. U did good!!.. hope it helps..
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

Gee thanks Granny. I am sure the OP will want to take things much further.
I am not happy with the method of saving the files, perhaps there is a better way to do it. Someone else can figure that part out.

Yes, I found a better way, instead of calling Batch Processing, use Image Processor, this gives way more options, and the renaming problem is neatly solved. Sometimes my scintillating intellect scares me half to death. Image Processor can be called from Bridge or directly from Photoshop, I prefer Bridge in CS2.

r.

I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility Comments welcome.

Thanks for the action. When refined, I believe that this script should be placed in a server because it can be useful for people and students that want to scan 35mm motion picture film with a regular film scanner.

…. and to some extend, if the auto cropping and positioning can be consistent relative to the center of the frame, an entire film reel can be scanned and then converted to video with quality never achieved so far… Film students can then "compete" with movie scans that only Hollywood can do. .with just a desktop scanner (and a week or so to scan the films)

Thanks for the script. Refining it would be a great idea!

"Phil M" wrote in message

I have something that sort of works, not elegant, needs fine tuning. Anyone who is interested go to www.rudybenner.com/utility Comments welcome.

Thanks for the action. When refined, I believe that this script should be placed in a server because it can be useful for people and students that want to scan 35mm motion picture film with a regular film scanner.

… and to some extend, if the auto cropping and positioning can be consistent relative to the center of the frame, an entire film reel can be scanned and then converted to video with quality never achieved so far… Film students can then "compete" with movie scans that only Hollywood can do. .with just a desktop scanner (and a week or so to scan the films)

Thanks for the script. Refining it would be a great idea!

What a great idea.

I claim no ownership for that Action, if anyone should get credit, it should be Granny, she got me on the track, the rest was just mechanics.

Feel free to post it or share it or whatever. I would prefer it to be public domain.

I am delighted to just be part of the process.

Photoshop never ceases to amaze me with its capabilities.

r.

Granny typed:
[snip]

I claim no ownership for that Action, if anyone should get credit, it should be Granny, she got me on the track, the rest was just mechanics.
Feel free to post it or share it or whatever. I would prefer it to be public domain.

I am delighted to just be part of the process.

I claim no ownership either … the post from JC Dill started my thinking.. I am just happy that it may help..
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

Feel free to post it or share it or whatever. I would prefer it to be public domain.

As of is right now, it can’t be used to crop motion picture film because the frame registration is not constant. This will cause the picture to "jitter" (jump). If somebody can implement a mechanism to auto detect the black borders and auto crop accordingly, it would be great. To make the process easier, I image that the script must be able to detect a good point to cut the frame in half, then auto crop.

You know the DVD called "Image of an assassination" (The DVD which contains a remastering of the John F. Kennedy Assassination). It was remastered using Photoshop. Each frame was individually scanned with an Agfa Scanner, imported to Photoshop, and then the frames were imported one by one to video software to create a motion sequence. The results are so outstanding; the resolution is so high, that you can even see reflections on the president’s brains. These results and this definition could never be achieved by running this filmstrip though a projector and camera. However, cropping was done by hand – 26 seconds is not that long. But to scan an entire reel, one would have been looking at an automation tool.

I strongly believe that if this action can be refined for consistency and more precision, it can benefit film students.

Granny typed:
[snip]

Feel free to post it or share it or whatever. I would prefer it to be public domain.

As of is right now, it can’t be used to crop motion picture film because the frame registration is not constant. This will cause the picture to "jitter" (jump). If somebody can implement a mechanism to auto detect the black borders and auto crop accordingly, it would be great. To make the process easier, I image that the script must be able to detect a good point to cut the frame in half, then auto crop.
You know the DVD called "Image of an assassination" (The DVD which contains a remastering of the John F. Kennedy Assassination). It was remastered using Photoshop. Each frame was individually scanned with an Agfa Scanner, imported to Photoshop, and then the frames were imported one by one to video software to create a motion sequence. The results are so outstanding; the resolution is so high, that you can even see reflections on the president’s brains. These results and this definition could never be achieved by running this filmstrip though a projector and camera. However, cropping was done by hand – 26 seconds is not that long. But to scan an entire reel, one would have been looking at an automation tool.

I strongly believe that if this action can be refined for consistency and more precision, it can benefit film students.

Phil,

The challenge might be figuring out how to use what you have instead of trying to improve on it.. Just like in Photoshop… I try to figure out how I can use the tools I have… NOT dream about how they should work or be made better so that it would be easier for me to use them..

I hate to put it back on you….. BUT, if the film is/was properly registered in the first place there would be much less of a problem.. therefore it seems to me that your focus should be on how to properly register the film to be copied so that all things will remain constant throughout the process.. NOT how to make a magic bullet to fix a problem that occurred early on in the process so you wont have to do a do over….

I think it would be more appropriate if you could implement a mechanism to make the frame registration constant… Something as simple as strips of tape used as horizontal and vertical guides or something for the sprocket holes to fit on, a splicing rig or anything rigged up that would register the film… I am sure there are professional methods out there if you want to spend the $$$… film frames ARE all the same size.. and the sprocket holes are all of equal size and spaced uniformly (guides work wonders when working with film) that’s why the projectors work so well.. remember your "Seven P’s" (Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance Permanently" in conjunction with "GIGO" (Garbage In Garbage Out)

You have been given a gift.. it is up to you now on how to implement it or improve on it if you want.. That’s the FUN of Photoshop, learning by doing it yourself, figuring things out and learning from your mistakes.. Step back, take a deep breath, look at the whole project and re-evaluate the processes, figure out what you want to do, then just keep trying till it comes out right for you .. That’s exactly what all of us here, have just done for you.. kept trying till we found a way to help with your dilemma.. the ball is in your court now, to figure a way to implement it..

Might take several tries BUT.. U CAN DO IT !!

I didn’t mean to ramble on.. I am OLD and tired… Sorry

I’m outta here… GOOD LUCK!!
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

The challenge might be figuring out how to use what you have instead of trying to improve on it..

Probably I did not express myself correctly. But I’m not complaining at all. For what I try to do its fine and for the few misregistered slides, I’ll go manually.

how I can use the tools I have… NOT dream about how they should work or be made better so that it would be easier for me to use them..

The improvement part was to scan motion picture film, which I don’t intend to do. It was just an idea. Not something that I’m dreaming to have or to do. an idea to take this script even further to serve also another purpuse. Again, an idea.

size.. and the sprocket holes are all of equal size and spaced uniformly (guides work wonders when working with film) that’s why the projectors

True, the film – in my case – is properly registered. Each frame is 4 sprocket holes long and each photo frame ends exactly where the 4th sprocket hole ends.

I think it would be more appropriate if you could implement a mechanism to make the frame registration constant…

My film scanner – a Nikon Coolscan V, like all desktop film scanners, were not designed to scan 35mm motion picture film. They were designed to scan 35mm photo film, as a result, they are not pin registered. For their purpose, they don’t have to be pin registered, and I can’t make it to align with the sprocket holes.

I didn’t mean to ramble on.. I am OLD and tired… Sorry

I didn’t mean to make anybody mad, but it was just an idea that i brought up for the motion picture part, something that has nothing to do with what I’m trying to do. I didn’t mean to offend anybody. Just an idea and I tank you for what you did. As for the motion picture film idea, just forget it, as if I didn’t say anything.

Granny typed:
[snip]

I didn’t mean to make anybody mad, but it was just an idea that i brought up for the motion picture part, something that has nothing to do with what I’m trying to do. I didn’t mean to offend anybody.

Awe shucks Phil,
You are soooo sweet, I am sorry if I left the impression that I was mad, upset, offended or shooting flames… not the case at all… I think your motion picture idea is a gambit worth trying..

Rudy ask for and welcomed your comments (I think we got him hooked)..

as for me.. I was merely looking way back into my own past and like I stated, was tired and rambling on.. I was only offering suggestions in the only clumsy way that I know (I don’t get out that much)… I know nothing about film scanners and such… You merely offered a suggestion and it seems as if you feel that I went off on you… twas not my intention at all…for that, I truly apologize .. XOXOXOXOXO

(I should not have slept through the classes on "Social Intercourse" but they were not about what I expected)
—
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

On Fri, 3 Nov 2006 17:44:02 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

As of is right now, it can’t be used to crop motion picture film because the frame registration is not constant. This will cause the picture to "jitter" (jump). If somebody can implement a mechanism to auto detect the black borders and auto crop accordingly, it would be great.

Try using Image -> Trim to crop out the inconsistant width of the black border from the slide frame. Then Image -> Canvas Size to resize down to remove the curved segments left after trimming.

This should solve frame registration problem as long as you don’t have problems with any images needing rotating.

jc

—

"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare’s Nest, PA

"JC Dill" wrote in message

On Fri, 3 Nov 2006 17:44:02 -0500, "Phil M"
wrote:

As of is right now, it can’t be used to crop motion picture film because the
frame registration is not constant. This will cause the picture to "jitter"
(jump). If somebody can implement a mechanism to auto detect the black borders and auto crop accordingly, it would be great.

Try using Image -> Trim to crop out the inconsistant width of the black border from the slide frame. Then Image -> Canvas Size to resize down to remove the curved segments left after trimming.
This should solve frame registration problem as long as you don’t have problems with any images needing rotating.

jc

Could you perhaps give more detail? I have not had any success.

On Sat, 4 Nov 2006 14:42:28 -0500, "Rudy Benner \(All_Thumbs\)" wrote:

Could you perhaps give more detail? I have not had any success.

Assumptions:

1) The image is correctly aligned – the slide frame borders are plumb with the image edges.

2) The slide frame is solid black (or solid white).

3) All 4 slide corners have identical shape/curve.

Steps:

1) Open a slide file.

2) Go to Image -> Trim
Select Based on "Top Left Pixel Color" and
Check all 4 Trim Away boxes

This will remove the solid slide edges, leaving just the corners. This step fixes the problem of the slides being slightly differently positioned in each scan – as long as the slides are correctly aligned with the slide edges plump to the image edge (not needing to be rotated) per assumption #1

3) Zoom in closely on the top left corner and determine how many more pixels you have to trim away (from the top and left sides) to remove the corner from the image. Double these numbers to get the total number of pixels you have to remove from the "top and bottom" and "left and right sides".

4) Go to Image -> Canvas size – change the settings to pixels if needed, and make note of your current width and height settings.

5) Do the math – subtract the "top and bottom" number from the "height" to get your new image (canvas) height, and subtract the "left and right sides" number from the "width". Enter the new numbers. Leave the anchor centered (default setting). This will
crop/trim/resize your image canvas size to remove the slide corners.

HTH

jc

—

"The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare’s Nest, PA