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"Idahoe" wrote in message
Open the image, and look at the numbers. We all make many subjective judgements when adjusting color. The question of whether something is gray or not is a quantative, not a subjective, question. In normal working spaces (sRGB, Adobe RGB, etc) if something is gray, the RGB values will be equal. Use Photoshop’s info palette to determine whether this is the case or not. It will be a more reliable indicator than your eyes, and is a better first reference, even if your monitor is carefully calibrated.
These are all good folks, well worth listening to.
No – calibrate your monitor independently of your printer, perhaps using Photoshop’s soft proofing feature to preview the image, and look for out of gamut colors. I say "perhaps" because I think the benefits of using profiles, say, for a specific Fuji Frontier, are very limited. If you would like to experiment with this, send them images that you have "soft previewed" in Photoshop, using the profile for that printer, and convert the images to the printer’s profile. Be sure to get in touch with the printer first to make sure they print the images "flat" – any slip in the pipeline and you will be worse off than just sending sRGB. Drycreekphoto has very good instructions for how to do this, and what you should say to the printer.
No. It is not. If you are using a CRT, calibrate your monitor carefully with Adobe Gamma. If you are using an LCD monitor, which is the norm these days, you may still be able to calibrate by eye, but it is more difficult because Adobe Gamma does not work with an LCD. Consider getting a monitor calibration device such as the i1 display 2, or the Spyder pro. I recommend that you use sRGB as your working space, and send the sRGB images directly the printer.
—
Mike Russell – www.curvemeister.com
Is color management necessary?
I am a casual photographer and like to have quality prints. I normally get very good color from Ofoto. However, I did have the experience of having a photo returned from Ofoto developing that printed white snow on my monitor as purple on the print.
Open the image, and look at the numbers. We all make many subjective judgements when adjusting color. The question of whether something is gray or not is a quantative, not a subjective, question. In normal working spaces (sRGB, Adobe RGB, etc) if something is gray, the RGB values will be equal. Use Photoshop’s info palette to determine whether this is the case or not. It will be a more reliable indicator than your eyes, and is a better first reference, even if your monitor is carefully calibrated.
I mainly want to avoid these large errors in developing. Is color management necessary for this? I have read:
Yes: http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/monitor_calibration.htm http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/soft-proofing.sh tml http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/acd-profile.shtm l
These are all good folks, well worth listening to.
No: http://kenrockwell.com/tech/color-management/is-for-wimps.ht mEntertaining reading, indeed. I would treat it as such. Unfortunately, I have to wince at the bombastic way that he presents things that are basically true. It makes me want to keep my distance, if you know what I mean.
I am uncertain about how profiling works in my setting. I have no printer and want to use a profile for my monitor from a developing company (calypso for example)? I think I need to download a profile from Calypso into my computer for the type of monitor/type of developing I want.
Is this the correct approach?
No – calibrate your monitor independently of your printer, perhaps using Photoshop’s soft proofing feature to preview the image, and look for out of gamut colors. I say "perhaps" because I think the benefits of using profiles, say, for a specific Fuji Frontier, are very limited. If you would like to experiment with this, send them images that you have "soft previewed" in Photoshop, using the profile for that printer, and convert the images to the printer’s profile. Be sure to get in touch with the printer first to make sure they print the images "flat" – any slip in the pipeline and you will be worse off than just sending sRGB. Drycreekphoto has very good instructions for how to do this, and what you should say to the printer.
Is any of this necessary really?
No. It is not. If you are using a CRT, calibrate your monitor carefully with Adobe Gamma. If you are using an LCD monitor, which is the norm these days, you may still be able to calibrate by eye, but it is more difficult because Adobe Gamma does not work with an LCD. Consider getting a monitor calibration device such as the i1 display 2, or the Spyder pro. I recommend that you use sRGB as your working space, and send the sRGB images directly the printer.
—
Mike Russell – www.curvemeister.com
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