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Tom Watson wrote in
news::
First off, are you sure your scanning software doesn’t have this built in? Most do anymore…
But if not, this is what I’ve done the few times I tried it, when my scanner couldn’t handle the color shift correctly. Pick a negative with a good range of colors throughout, especially whites in shadow (clothes, drapes, sides of house, whatever). Use ‘Invert’ as you have, which gives you a positive image with a cyan cast. Go into Curves, and use the eyedropper tools for white and grey on the corresponding areas of the negative which *should* be pure white and middle-tone grey. Tweak to taste.
All types of film have a different color-cast to the film base, and additionally may have faded or color-shifted throught time. So you can’t easily change this into an action. But, if you have a lot of the same type of film, you can get good results with one prime example, then jot down the Curves numbers before you close that window. On the next neg, change the curves manually while recording the action (do not use the eyedroppers). Won’t be perfect for every pic, but should get you close enough to wiggle on your own.
Good luck!
– Al.
—
To reply, insert dash in address to separate G and I in the domain
news::
Hi
I’ve been scanning black and white negatives (900 of them) of 1920’s family pictures, and I ran across a few old color negatives as well. I have been trying to invert and adjust the levels on the pos color picture, but the colors come out all wrong! I know I’m doing something silly or missing something. I also tried in Graphic converter too, to no avail!
First off, are you sure your scanning software doesn’t have this built in? Most do anymore…
But if not, this is what I’ve done the few times I tried it, when my scanner couldn’t handle the color shift correctly. Pick a negative with a good range of colors throughout, especially whites in shadow (clothes, drapes, sides of house, whatever). Use ‘Invert’ as you have, which gives you a positive image with a cyan cast. Go into Curves, and use the eyedropper tools for white and grey on the corresponding areas of the negative which *should* be pure white and middle-tone grey. Tweak to taste.
All types of film have a different color-cast to the film base, and additionally may have faded or color-shifted throught time. So you can’t easily change this into an action. But, if you have a lot of the same type of film, you can get good results with one prime example, then jot down the Curves numbers before you close that window. On the next neg, change the curves manually while recording the action (do not use the eyedroppers). Won’t be perfect for every pic, but should get you close enough to wiggle on your own.
Good luck!
– Al.
—
To reply, insert dash in address to separate G and I in the domain
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