Basic: How to manage Nikon D70 image size vs. print size

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Posted By
Michael_Borger
Jun 13, 2005
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782
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Starting a workflow. All my Nikon D70 images are JPG at 3000×2008 pixels. However, now that I have them online and people want to buy them, I’m having trouble converting some of them to common printable sizes like 8×10 or 11×14. The way I see it, my options are limited to this:

1. Crop to one size and that’s the size available. Or to a size from which multiple sizes are available.
* * PROBLEM: Some of my images fill the complete width in landscape, so cropping doesn’t help.

2. Use Image Size to force the image to a certain size.
* ** PROBLEM: Doing this distorts the image. Tolerable to a degree, depending on the image

3. Increase the canvas size in one direction and fill in the space with a solid color. * ** PROBLEM: This only works for images where the background is relatively solid or the filled in extra space creates a seamless transition with the original image. It also makes the image too ‘weighted’ toward the new extra space.

Here is an example. Two pink lotus candles against a black background. There’s not much room to crop horizontally and a fixed marquee at 8×10 chops off the candles. Some photos in my gallery aren’t fortunate enough to have a solid black background to play with, so the problem is even worse.

<http://mikeseyes.smugmug.com/gallery/567714/2/23674500> (two candles) <http://mikeseyes.smugmug.com/gallery/567836/1/23679158> (waterfall; 2nd row, first photo)

Are there any other options? If not, does this mean that when I take photos that I want to print at 8×10, for example, I can’t be filling the whole viewfinder with my subject b/c I’ll have this issue every time? I’m quite dismayed/frustrated.

I know this is something many people have handled, so any advice is appreciated.
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Nick_Decker
Jun 13, 2005
Michael, when shooting in your D70’s format, yes, you’ll have to crop off some from the edges to get an 8×10. It helps to pre-visualize this when shooting.
DP
Daryl_Pritchard
Jun 13, 2005
Michael,

Indeed, what you see is what you get, if you want to maintain original image proportions. Be it from the D70 or an image from any other source, one that is basically in a 2:3 aspect will only provide a full frame image when enlarged to sizes of the same aspect. Otherwise, unless you’re willing to distort the aspect, you will have to either crop the image and lose some portion of it, or add margins to fill the image size out to the desired dimensions. This is no different than shooting 35mm film images and requesting an 8×10 (cropped) or an 8×12 (full frame) photo enlargment. Frustrating yes, but it’s the nature of the game and one that does indeed require planning ahead as you surmise.

Regards,

Daryl
C
chrisjbirchall
Jun 13, 2005
Here’s how we handle it at our portrait studio.

First we crop (or not) the image to suit the image. This might be the full DSLR frame, it might be square, but the crop is always to suit the image.

Then, if for instance we have sold a 20×16", the image is resized to approximately two inches less in the greatest dimension.

Then we "select all" (Ctrl+A) and create a stroke line. (This might be white, black, or a colour picked from the image)

Then, with white or black as the background colour (whichever suits the image best) we go Image>Canvas_Size (Alt+I+S) and enter 20×16" as the size.

This creates a "gallery style" presentation which will fit a standard size frame without compromising the crop of the image in any way.

Hope this is of some use.

Chris.
MB
Michael_Borger
Jun 13, 2005
Thanks to everyone. Chris, a couple questions. By a "stroke line", do you mean a border around the image separating it from the enlarged canvas, i.e. an outline?

Also, how then do you manage the canvas border (meaning the 2" area of the enlarge canvas that surrounds the image) with regard to matting and framing? It seems to me that, visually, using your method would give it a ‘double matted’ look unless you skip the matting completely and just have the image unmatted in a frame. Hope this make sense. From inside out, the order as I’m picturing it would be: image, canvas border (like a digital matting?), actual physical matting, frame. What does your finished product actually look like?
C
chrisjbirchall
Jun 13, 2005
What does your finished product actually look like?

Edit>Stroke is the command to use to create the key line. Image>Canvas_Size to extend the canvas to create a border.

Both these images are in the 10×8 proportions. The first has a key line (stroke) using the skin colour with a white canvas extension.

The second has a white keyline with a black canvas extension.

<http://www.beautyphoto.co.uk/proofs/border1.jpg>

<http://www.beautyphoto.co.uk/proofs/border2.jpg>

These would look best in a simple narrow frame without matting

Hope this helps

Chris.
DP
Daryl_Pritchard
Jun 13, 2005
Michael,

By the last questions you asked, are you perhaps trying to just stick with using a pre-cut mat that you buy in a store? If so, I understand your dilemma. Otherwise, I’d suggest you just cut your own mats or have one custom cut for you, the latter obviously being a more expensive option. Doing your own mats or even buying custom-cut ones will free you from the rigidity of having to crop a print unnecessarily.

If you have any interest in cutting your own mats, then I’d recommend Alto’s EZ Mat Cutting System as a rather affordable as well as quick and easy to use mat cutter. I used to cut mats by hand, with a Dexter mat cutter and straightedge that was prone to slipping. The Alto’s cutter was a superior approach and I’m sure I’ve paid for it in what I’ve saved in purchasing custom mats. Here’s a link that shows what the system looks like: <http://www.dickblick.com/zz171/03/>. There are other cutting systems on the market that are as good or better, but usually at a higher price as well. I find this system more than sufficient for my needs.

Regards,

Daryl
HP
Heather_Panter-Jones
Jun 14, 2005
If I’m understanding you correctly? What I do to get the required size I want, first re-size the original to a smaller pixel size, but larger than the size you want, then to open a blank frame in the actual size you want, move the original picture to this blank, yes, you will lose some of the height (if less than the width), or width – if upright photo, but when taking the picture in the first place allow for this. The other answers could work also, but sound more complicated! Just that I find this a simple way to resize, keeping the original shape, so no distortion. Its up to you. I have saved a selection of different sized blank frames to use this way. Hope this helps?

Heather
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chrisjbirchall
Jun 14, 2005
The beauty of the method I suggested in post #3 and #5 chrisjbirchall, "Basic: How to manage Nikon D70 image size vs. print size" #5, 13 Jun 2005 1:46 pm </cgi-bin/webx?14/4> is that your composition is dictated by the subject matter instead of the traditional formats.

It removes the awkward cropping decisiona you have to make when trying to print the same image to 7×5", 10×8, 12×10 and 14×11" – all of which have different aspect ratios.

Our customers love it!

Chris

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