** CromaKey in Photoshop CS ??

You might try by selecting the blue with the magic wand tool, and then hitting your delete key.

We have stopped using Blue (and green) screen chromakey at our studio. It is simply not worth it when you require a quality result.

After all, whether your background is blue, green or, in our case grey, you still have to use one of Photoshop’s various extraction methods to remove the background.

With a grey (or black or white) background you don’t have the problem of colour fringing in the hair and around the edges of wispy clothing.

My favored method is to use the "Extract" filter. It takes a little getting used to but once mastered, it creates the most realistic cut-out.

Hit F1 to read up on "how to", then practise, practise, practise.

You can see some of the results by viewing our portfolio pages at: <http://www.beautyphoto.co.uk>

Best of luck with it.

Chris.

Thanks alot guys !

I really appreciated
I’m just not a master in photoshop

I do this in after effects and it work beautiful.
But, never done it in photoshop and I have sometimes special occations for photos and covers, to get it done from scratch in photoshop, I get very nice quality.
Rather then export my image from after effets

Anyways, Thanks

Freddy

If you do a lot of chromakey work, consider investing in a plugin like that from Ultimatte. You can indeed get a good matte using blue or greenscreen. Just make sure your lighting is good (even on the background and with sufficient distance to minimize colour spill).

And, there are proprietary hardware/software solutions that can make dead-perfect image isolation a fair snap. It consists of special lighting, special backdrops, a calibration system and proprietary software algorithms that COMPLETELY remove the background and adjust any fringing color and overall color cast so that the green or blue disappears.

But the system is not for the casual user, or someone without a hefty budget.

I do this in after effects and it work beautiful.

If you’re used to working on motion, you’ll be shocked at how much more flaws are apparent when you see them for more than a fraction of a second. (in other words, what works for film/video doesn’t neccessarily look good on a still image)

The best software I’ve seen for this kind of stuff. It is very inexpensive for the quality of it’s results, (just about perfect!) and the only thing that has to change in the photo studio is to change the backdrop, either by using different backdrops, or by changing just the lighting of the backdrop.

<http://www.bergdesign.com/maskerade/>