Views
226
Replies
1
Status
Closed
I have wrestled for a year with trying to use LCDs with CS3. Calibrating with either a Monaco Optixx or a Spyder 2 yields excellent color matches but prints that are at least two stops too dark. I have work-arounds, involving arbitrary adjustments to brightness or curves just prior to printing, but this is not the what-you-see-is-what-you-get experience I used to have with CRTs.
In fact I hooked up a slightly dim but formerly high quality CRT to a machine running CS2, calibrated the thing, and by Jiminy judging brightness on the CRT yields that ideal WYSIWYG experience: a nearly perfect print. Would a device like the Spyder 3 with an ambient light meter yield better results?
Unless I can buy, which I can’t, an uber expensive dedicated graphics panel am I doomed to work-arounds because LCDs are so frigging bright that even a calibration sensor cannot adjust for their brightness?
Is off-axis light fall off from the LCD fooling my failing eyes? That should not be a factor for calibration . . .
In fact I hooked up a slightly dim but formerly high quality CRT to a machine running CS2, calibrated the thing, and by Jiminy judging brightness on the CRT yields that ideal WYSIWYG experience: a nearly perfect print. Would a device like the Spyder 3 with an ambient light meter yield better results?
Unless I can buy, which I can’t, an uber expensive dedicated graphics panel am I doomed to work-arounds because LCDs are so frigging bright that even a calibration sensor cannot adjust for their brightness?
Is off-axis light fall off from the LCD fooling my failing eyes? That should not be a factor for calibration . . .
How to Master Sharpening in Photoshop
Give your photos a professional finish with sharpening in Photoshop. Learn to enhance details, create contrast, and prepare your images for print, web, and social media.
