Getting lighting to look similar

M
Posted By
MrsBeebleBrock
Nov 17, 2003
Views
406
Replies
5
Status
Closed
Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo

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D
Davin
Nov 17, 2003
Hello,
I think the images have different colours due to being photographed at different angles.
My suggestion –
Pick the background that you like the best – clone/patch tool out the piece (working on a copy of course – the only problem I see with this – is all the piece shadows will be different).
Then use that as your background and cut and paste the rest of the pieces onto it – singularly or in groups.
Alternately – just take a picture of the background again – with nothing on it and then cut and paste the pieces onto it.
If you want the pieces to look the same – place the camera on a tripod. place the background under the tripod (make sure it cannot move) – mark at ‘X’ (and a piece of bluetak etc) on the background (large enough to see for piece placement – not large enough to see in final photo). Set up your lighting for how you like it – and shoot your pieces again. (if you do not want changes in the background colour – you need controlled indirect light as well – i.e. – don’t do it outside in the daylight. If you are shooting inside using desk lamps etc you will need to use the appropriate film/digital camera white balance – for correct colour.

Regards,
Davin
www.davin-photography.com

"MrsBeebleBrock" wrote in message
Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo
JK
JP Kabala
Nov 18, 2003
Have you tried using the black, white and neutral droppers in levels? "MrsBeebleBrock" wrote in message
Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo
M
MrsBeebleBrock
Nov 18, 2003
Thanks guys. Davin, I do actually need the matt and the extraction process is too tricky with half of the pieces in dark shadow. I haven’t yet mastered Knockout to be able to get around this problem.

JP, I’m going to read up on the Levels tool – it might just be what I need.

Cheers,
Jo

MrsBeebleBrock wrote:
Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo
M
Mr3
Nov 18, 2003
Not enough detail to make a definitive guess…

Do you need the background?
Is it possible to extract the jewelry from the background? If so, do it and color correct the jewelry.
Here is one way to extract the objects…

I use the Pen tool to create a path then convert the path to a selection and then move the selection to a new layer.

in depth <<<<<<<<<<<
This is a three step process:
1. Quickly create a rough path around the object.
2. Adjust curve control points to precisely position the path.
3. Convert the path to a selection and separate the selected item from
the background

==== step one ====
Quickly create a rough path around the object.

Select Pen Tool
On the Tool Options Bar
Select Create New Work Path
Checkmark Auto Add/Delete
Checkmark Rubber Band

To start the path, Click anywhere on the product outline. This places a path anchor point
Continue the path by clicking to add path anchor points ONLY where the product outline makes significant or abrupt changes, like corners and tight turns.
Do NOT try to make the ‘rubberband’ follow the outline; anchor points are just starting points.
Example: a dinner plate may need only three anchor points, a cereal box or milk carton may only need six anchor points to generate a complete outline.

To finish the path, Click on the starting point.

==== step two ====
Adjust the curve control points to precisely position the path.

Select Convert Point Tool from Pen toolbox.
Click anywhere on the path.
This reveals the path anchor points
Click and Drag on any path anchor point in the SAME direction that you created the path.
This will reveal and reposition the two curve control points and manipulate the curve.
While in this mode, Press and Hold the ALT key (sorry Apple corp.) This isolates your control to a single curve control point Position this single curve control point appropriately
While still holding ALT, position the other curve control point. Work your way around the object, going from point to point To reposition a path anchor point, hold the CTRL key and click and drag.
Go back to the Pen toolbox if you need to add or remove path anchor points

==== step three ====
Convert the path to a selection and separate the selected item from the background

With all the curve control points adjusted,
Right Click the path and choose Make Selection
Feather Radius: = 0, 1, or 2 pixels (this softens any mistakes made in the path)
Checkmark Anti-aliased
Click OK
This creates a ‘marching ants’ selection
Layer/New Layer/Layer via Copy
Moves the selection to its own layer.

—— options/insurance ——
I COPY the selection to a new layer so I can easily fix any selection mistakes. On this layer I can trim off areas that shouldn’t have been selected. Use the Eraser tool or Selection tools then delete.

Most importantly, I can add areas that got missed by the path.

Create a new layer, Name = Green, Opacity = 66
Fill this layer with a bright green color (R,G,B = 0,255,0) This layer provides a visual ‘separation’ between the isolated image and the original.
On the layers palette, move the Green layer between the isolated image and the original layer.
Isolated Image Layer
Green Layer
Background/Original Image Layer

Carefully inspect the border/edges of the isolated image. You can toggle the original image layer on/off to verify questionable areas.

To add to the image
Make the original layer active
Select the area to be added
CTRL-C copy
Make the isolated image layer active
CTRL-V paste

If your original image has a hole in it (like the open area under a basket handle or inside a belt buckle), repeat the path process on the isolated image, only delete the selection instead of moving to a new layer. If you make a mistake, you can always copy from the original layer.

Sorry for all the words.
It really is fast after you get the first three or four done. The trick is picking the right spots for path anchor points.

Hope that helps,

Mr3

"MrsBeebleBrock" wrote in message
Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo
M
MrsBeebleBrock
Nov 18, 2003
Thanks for that. I do need the backgrounds, but your advice will be really useful for future projects. Much appreciated.

Jo

Mr3 wrote:
Not enough detail to make a definitive guess…

Do you need the background?
Is it possible to extract the jewelry from the background? If so, do it and color correct the jewelry.
Here is one way to extract the objects…

I use the Pen tool to create a path then convert the path to a selection and then move the selection to a new layer.

in depth <<<<<<<<<<<

This is a three step process:
1. Quickly create a rough path around the object.
2. Adjust curve control points to precisely position the path.
3. Convert the path to a selection and separate the selected item from
the background

==== step one ====
Quickly create a rough path around the object.

Select Pen Tool
On the Tool Options Bar
Select Create New Work Path
Checkmark Auto Add/Delete
Checkmark Rubber Band

To start the path, Click anywhere on the product outline. This places a path anchor point
Continue the path by clicking to add path anchor points ONLY where the product outline makes significant or abrupt changes, like corners and tight turns.
Do NOT try to make the ‘rubberband’ follow the outline; anchor points are just starting points.
Example: a dinner plate may need only three anchor points, a cereal box or milk carton may only need six anchor points to generate a complete outline.

To finish the path, Click on the starting point.

==== step two ====
Adjust the curve control points to precisely position the path.
Select Convert Point Tool from Pen toolbox.
Click anywhere on the path.
This reveals the path anchor points
Click and Drag on any path anchor point in the SAME direction that you created the path.
This will reveal and reposition the two curve control points and manipulate the curve.
While in this mode, Press and Hold the ALT key (sorry Apple corp.) This isolates your control to a single curve control point Position this single curve control point appropriately
While still holding ALT, position the other curve control point. Work your way around the object, going from point to point To reposition a path anchor point, hold the CTRL key and click and drag.
Go back to the Pen toolbox if you need to add or remove path anchor points

==== step three ====
Convert the path to a selection and separate the selected item from the background

With all the curve control points adjusted,
Right Click the path and choose Make Selection
Feather Radius: = 0, 1, or 2 pixels (this softens any mistakes made in the path)
Checkmark Anti-aliased
Click OK
This creates a ‘marching ants’ selection
Layer/New Layer/Layer via Copy
Moves the selection to its own layer.

—— options/insurance ——
I COPY the selection to a new layer so I can easily fix any selection mistakes. On this layer I can trim off areas that shouldn’t have been selected. Use the Eraser tool or Selection tools then delete.
Most importantly, I can add areas that got missed by the path.
Create a new layer, Name = Green, Opacity = 66
Fill this layer with a bright green color (R,G,B = 0,255,0) This layer provides a visual ‘separation’ between the isolated image and the original.
On the layers palette, move the Green layer between the isolated image and the original layer.
Isolated Image Layer
Green Layer
Background/Original Image Layer

Carefully inspect the border/edges of the isolated image. You can toggle the original image layer on/off to verify questionable areas.
To add to the image
Make the original layer active
Select the area to be added
CTRL-C copy
Make the isolated image layer active
CTRL-V paste

If your original image has a hole in it (like the open area under a basket handle or inside a belt buckle), repeat the path process on the isolated image, only delete the selection instead of moving to a new layer. If you make a mistake, you can always copy from the original layer.
Sorry for all the words.
It really is fast after you get the first three or four done. The trick is picking the right spots for path anchor points.
Hope that helps,

Mr3

"MrsBeebleBrock" wrote in message

Hi folks,

Am doing a jewellery brochure and have to place pics of pieces that were taken under various different lighting conditions. Some have pink tinges, some are more green, etc. Weird, since there was only about five mins max between shots, but I suspect the photographer was messing about with his settings between pieces.

I wonder what would be the best way to "equalise" all photos to look as if they were taken under the same circumstances?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Jo

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