Hi,
I went ahead and wrote down an overview. Hopefully this will give you an idea of whether this is something you want to attempt. The most important consideration, other than death, is that the plastic case that encloses the circuitry also provides structure for the chassis. Once removed the weight of the tube will destroy the chassis if allowed to rest unsupported. Second; the 19"s are heavy and you have to be strong enough to lift them with only your arms, that is, without the support of your body because they have to be tumbled and laid down gently during disassembly.
First the bezel has to be removed. In my case there were two screws and a clip. Once the screws were removed the retaining clip needed to be pressed while the bezel was slid toward the rear of the monitor. Then there were four screws, two of which were concealed behind plastic covers, which had to be pried out, at each corner – these had to be removed.
Then I laid the monitor CRT side down, on a clean thick cotton towel folded triple, and slid the plastic cover straight up and off. Now the monitor is in a very fragile state. If the tube is allowed to rest on the circuit board it will be damaged.
Now what you are looking for is the flyback transformer. This will have a conductor with a thick rubber insulator running from it the to the side of the tube connected with what looks like a suction cup. This device may or may not be concealed within metal shielding.
Here are a couple of images I found on google.
http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/Jacob/suctioncup.jpg http://jlnlabs.imars.com/lifters/labhvps/images/tht.jpg Somewhere on the flyback there will hopefully be one or more accessible knobs that can be turned. It is a good idea to mark the current positions with a Sharpie or nail polish so you will know where to return them to if you turn them and they and they turn out to be unrelated. I trimmed a long plastic knitting needle to make the adjustments to avoid placing a capacitive load on the circuitry and to keep my distance.
Of the three knobs available to me one was clearly ‘level’ and the other two seemed to do the same thing. So I tried to split the adjustment equally between the knobs so that the resulting focus was a result of moving both knobs the same amount.
Then I nibbled a hole in the plastic case that would allow me to make adjustments as the unit ages.
After reassembly the final step was to go back through the setup using the menus and the users accessible knobs on the front of the monitor. In my case the refocusing had thrown the convergence a little out of whack and needed to be tuned.
HTH,
Ron
